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wish i had a powerfc,  coz i'd be able to tell straight away which sensor isn't working

How do you know?like what tells you a sensor is shot.I know in etc you can veiw all the sensors but they all go up and down etc.

My car had a very similar problem.

Diagnostic showed a 12 fault. Then 55

It turned out to be the AFM.

You can dig the sealant from around the cover on the AFM and remove the cover. Inside there is a circuit board.

My AFM had a dodgy connection between the board and the pins for the plug.

It was soldered up and it fixed my stall/splutter problems 100%

Reseal the cover with black sikaflex or silicon.

Your long/fast warmup idle is probably caused by a worn/faulty air regulator.

It can also cause fast idle and idle speed hunting problems.

Do a search on it.

How do you know?like what tells you a sensor is shot.I know in etc you can veiw all the sensors but they all go up and down etc.

well, when the problem starts happening, you use the hand controller and see if it's getting a reading from the afm, and if it is, if it's normal. same can be achieved by using the cars Consult connector if you have the required hardware.

another thing you can do is disable certain sensors this is useful for tracking down problems.

  • 2 months later...

Ok guys i have a r32 auto rb20det....umm i have been having the same probs....i was running a stock air box and it has had the prob and i am running a k&n pod atm and it still does...i am running irraway7 plugs in it, new oil, filter, fuel filter, i have clean everything, the acc value the air reg, the throttle body, the turbo. People say it could be the afm, the fuel pump earth, the lack of octane in the fuel, firty fuel.....atm it is not constant. If i dont drive it for a while then drive it it doesnt really do it...i was driving it for 3 days before it did it on the weekend. Other the a pod...the car is stock...i am going to put a aftermarket BOV on it sometime as well.......I will change my afm tomorrow if i get time and see how it runs with that....and i will pull apart the old one and have a look at the connections....any other ideas from anyone would be good.

Thank god someone else is having the same problems!!! This happened to me and I got a new AFM now it doesnt seem to loose power or rev up and down on its own from 1000 to 2000rpm. But with the new AFM constantly stalls just on idle! and the car seems to idle very rough sometimes. I was told my ecu had F%^$$ itself. However I dout it. the new AFM i have int the same model no to the 1 i had so maybe I have to hunt for the same. Let me know how u guys go im just keenb to have my car back to normal again!!

cheers

Well boys found a guy in coffs with the same AFM serial no as The original put it in this morning AND TOTALLY fixed no problems watsoever runs like a dream and boosts up nicely all the way up the rev line!!! would deffiniately recommend same coloured sticker and serial no AFM as original. Goodluck guys!!!

-patto

Gents,

A few years ago I had a similar problem with an RB20 I put in an R31. It had similar symptons to the ones being descibed. In my case I had installed a non-oiled pod filter. The problem was I had used normal silicon to seal the adapter flange to the MAF as I didn't have the original O-ring. The silicon caused the MAF to gradually deteriorate until it wouldn't let me rev past approx 2000rpm (ECU went into limp home mode).

From what I understand vapours from silicon play havoc with electronics. For this reason there are a variety of 'sensor-safe' sealants on the market.

Another common problem is excessively oiled filters can result in oil being dragged into the air stream coating the hot wire element resulting in incorrect airflow readings.

Some food for thought.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
Thank god someone else is having the same problems!!! This happened to me and I got a new AFM now it doesnt seem to loose power or rev up and down on its own from 1000 to 2000rpm. But with the new AFM constantly stalls just on idle! and the car seems to idle very rough sometimes. I was told my ecu had F%^$$ itself. However I dout it. the new AFM i have int the same model no to the 1 i had so maybe I have to hunt for the same. Let me know how u guys go im just keenb to have my car back to normal again!!

cheers

ok so i put in another one, not a new one, and my prob is fixed, just got to service my auto now :S....i am going to pull apart my old afm and try to fix it, see how i go. I will post my forth coming findings.
  • 1 month later...

Might be off track. but i had a very similar problem and it ended up been the air auxiliary valve. Controls the amount of air going in plenum i think which therefore completely screwed up my idle and general running of the car. If you guys are still stuck, give it a quick look.

I just started having this problem the other day... will be driving along and it just loses power for a split second, then it's back, then it's gone, back... etc. Sometimes it's worse than others. Also stalls when idling which it has never done before this started 3-4 days ago.

So replacing the AFM is the way to go? I thought it seemed like it was getting starved for fuel so i replaced the fuel filter (which i couldn't even blow through it was that clogged with shit) but still has the same problem. I get so upset when my baby isn't working properly =(

Hey guys i'm just trying to confirm whether or not my AFM is the problem before I go out and buy one... (secondhand preferably because some nissan spare parts place just quoted me $850 for one shipped from Japan)

Car seems to be a bit worse today, had to pull over twice because it was just dying that much. Stalled several times both times, and when I started it up again the revs would seek between 1-2000rpm for about 30seconds before settling at about 750 which is normal. I checked the ECU for error codes but all I got was 55 ALL OK so no MAF error in there. Does it still sound like my air flow meter is stuffed? I'm using a non-oiled pod filter, am gonna take it all off tommorow and see if there's anything majorly obvious thats wrong with the afm.

Edit: Car also seems to be running a little richer than usual, ie fuel consumption not as good as previous.

Edited by Lithius
Hey guys i'm just trying to confirm whether or not my AFM is the problem before I go out and buy one... (secondhand preferably because some nissan spare parts place just quoted me $850 for one shipped from Japan)

Car seems to be a bit worse today, had to pull over twice because it was just dying that much. Stalled several times both times, and when I started it up again the revs would seek between 1-2000rpm for about 30seconds before settling at about 750 which is normal.

This happened to my car.

I gaurantee the problem is your airflow meter. I changed mine and it completely fixed the problem.

cleaning afm didn't work for me, just grab a second hand one from the wreckers. r33 and r32 gtst are the same.

Cheers,

Tim

I've been having the same problem with my RB20. I am getting a bosch fuel pump put in today because it seems like it's being starved of fuel. Hopefully that is the cause. If not, I'm gonna replace the AFM like you guys said.

I'ver also got another symptom that I haven't seen mentioned. My water temp gauge goes half way normally, when I put my parkers it shoots up, normal lights it goes to the top, high beams it goes off the meter. Anyone else have this problem too? I don't think the AFM would be causing this.

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