Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PS. Does anybody know if you can put your dyno runs from one dyno on a disk and then take your runs from another, put them on the disk and then compare graphs directly??

BASS OUT

Hi Bass, the Dyno Dynamics software does it for you, you just load up the different runs and overlay them. :)

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Okay, here's my thought.

the Inlet cam gear is adjustable, not easily, but it is. Now I noticed the bolts in this were all the way to one side of the adjustment. I'm not sure if this was advance or retard, but it wasn't right in the middle..... So maybe this could be a factor?

I'm making up a ring to make the inlet gear adjustable shortly, then I'm going to give it a run and see how it goes with some adjustment.

I will first try it in the middle. Then play with it from there......

What do you think? Could this be the cause?

 Now I noticed the bolts in this were all the way to one side of the adjustment.  I'm not sure if this was advance or retard, but it wasn't right in the middle.....  So maybe this could be a factor? Could this be the cause?

BAss I would think this sounds like the 30 RWKW Black Hole :D

Usually I believe the Intake is not moved any more than 2 Degrees so sounds like yours was way past this.

Have the bolts come loose and its slipped from when dynoing??

when i bought my R33 head (non-turbo) the VVT inlet cam gear had the adjustable backing plate that you describe. mine too is adjusted fully towards the end of the range, i have no idea if this is correct.

EDIT: just by looking at it, it would appear that this position is the farthest advanced position the cam can sit at. is this where it's supposed to be? :confused:

My VVT inlet cam was dead centre, I've heard advancing or retarding cant remember which helps makes the motor a little peakier on the rb30 bottom end anyway. A few of the NA RB25/30 guys have changed the setting.

Either way i just left mine centred/factory setting, no use in just guesssing without a dyno.

so anyone got a completely stock R33 GTS-T and can they have a look at where the VVT cam backing plate is in regards to rotation?

and why the hell is it adjustable, surely nissan would have found the sweet spot and left the holes there rather than making it possible to swing the cam around?

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys.

A couple more notes about the Cams.

Car now drinking petrol like a fish! 410 ks for a full highway run. 110 klms the whole way.

Vacuum gauge sits higher than it did before (meaning less vacuum), but that is to be expected.

I would 1 bar into it for a few seconds on the trip, and OMFG the thing comes alive! Seem's to be itching for some more boost. I never usually break traction in second in the dry, but I dialed up 1 bar, boosted it and it was all see ya later.

I am not running at 1 abr, or anything like it now, sticking to 11-12 psi for the sake of the turbo, but once the highflow goes one, look out!!

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...