Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a dilemma, if this is in the wrong section, mods please move it.

My diff in my car makes clunking noises, but only when turning and moving very slowly, i.e. car park, but only when i accelerate, is this a mech LSD or locked diff?

David

Id say mech diff man, prob 2way especially if you have a cefiro. If its really bad try chaning the oil, helped mine a bit.

A locker would be constantly locked, so your tyres would just chirp going round corners slow, which with effort you should be able to get yours to do.

My diff makes a similiar noise to urs as well...its been like that since i bought the car, changed the diff oil once made no difference. So you guys say it is a Mechanical Diff? Whats the diff in the R33 s1 from the factory? not Mech i take it.

How do you know its 1.5 or 2 way diff?

2-way mech diffs will chirp on corners unless clutch is in. (as soon as u put foot on clutch, it will un-lock)

fully locked diffs ie spooled/welded will chirp always regardless. Trust me, you'll know if it's a fully locked....

factory diff is a viscous lsd, which will only lock under decent load.. and depending on how worn it is, only locks some of the time...

for a good article on diff's goto http://www.garage-13.com/difftech.html

if it's a 1.5 way, it will only half-lock on deceleration. hard to tell unless you drift it. only other way is to take out the centre and look at the shape of the plates.

2-way mech diffs will chirp on corners unless clutch is in. (as soon as u put foot on clutch, it will un-lock)

That's what happens with my car. I thought it was a mech-2way because when I clutch it it rolls better in tight corners. But when I had my car up on lift I spun one of the rear wheels & the other wheel spun in the same direction making me realise it's locked.

ok so when i imported my car it came with a locked diff (and is still in there) i only notice it when im cornering at all and clutching does not affect it. Not 100% sure what type it is but will find out asap (as i want to know) what are the advantages and disadvantages of a locked diff for daily driving???

ok so when i imported my car it came with a locked diff (and is still in there) i only notice it when im cornering at all and clutching does not affect it.  Not 100% sure what type  it is but will find out asap (as i want to know) what are the advantages and disadvantages of a locked diff for daily driving???

I questioned keeping my locked diff hey, was considering pissing it off but end up thinking the advantages are better than the disadvantages.

Advantages:

1. Always 50/50 power to the rear wheels, great for straight line dragging.

2. IF you like drift it's awesome for drift, much easier to get the tail out & keep it out.

Disadvantages:

1. Dangerous in wet, have to be VERY gentle on throttle when turning. I was changing lanes around a light corner in 2nd in the wet gently accelerating & the whole tail bloody kicked out in a flash, lucky the room I corrected in had no cars next to me...

2. Bad cornering in general, tail still wants to slip out if you're pushing it.

3. Tight turning can be annoying but its not that bad, the bad cornering disadvantage is the worst not being able to really push the car as hard as it could be cornering.

I questioned keeping my locked diff hey, was considering pissing it off but end up thinking the advantages are better than the disadvantages.

Advantages:

1.  Always 50/50 power to the rear wheels, great for straight line dragging.

2. IF you like drift it's awesome for drift, much easier to get the tail out & keep it out.

Disadvantages:

1.  Dangerous in wet, have to be VERY gentle on throttle when turning. I was changing lanes around a light corner in 2nd in the wet gently accelerating & the whole tail bloody kicked out in a flash, lucky the room I corrected in had no cars next to me...

2.  Bad cornering in general, tail still wants to slip out if you're pushing it.

3.  Tight turning can be annoying but its not that bad, the bad cornering disadvantage is the worst not being able to really push the car as hard as it could be cornering.

yeah im still undecided as its a daily driver and get some very funny looks from people when slow driving in the middle of town and i dont really like the idea of my tyres skipping all the time when turning slow corners wearing them out even faster than normal!!!

yeah im still undecided as its a daily driver and get some very funny looks from people when slow driving in the middle of town and i dont really like the idea of my tyres skipping all the time when turning slow corners wearing them out even faster than normal!!!

A good 1-way LSD not too tight but not too loose, just right 'like the cereal :bonk:' would probably be your best bet. You'll get best possible cornering & 50/50 power when enough torque is being thrown at it. I’d love one of these diffs but I don’t mind a bit of drift every now and again 'as my signature gif may suggest' so I’ll just keep my locker.

Hi All,

Seeing as we are talking about diffs i was hoping to get some thoughts on a situation i have with the diff in my 32 gtr. I only picked the car up recently and the diff seems to be fully locked no matter what the conditions. Real annoying. Ive changed the oil and it made no difference. So my thoughts are that its either stuffed or been intentionally locked.

I dont know a whole lot about diffs, but i would have thought if it was "stuffed" that it would simply loose its LSD effect rather than have it permanently lock up, so i doubt this is the problem. However i also cant understand why someone would want to put a fully locked diff into a STOCK gtr.

Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated.

Hi All,

Seeing as we are talking about diffs i was hoping to get some thoughts on a situation i have with the diff in my 32 gtr. I only picked the car up recently and the diff seems to be fully locked no matter what the conditions. Real annoying. Ive changed the oil and it made no difference. So my thoughts are that its either stuffed or been intentionally locked.  

I dont know a whole lot about diffs, but i would have thought if it was "stuffed" that it would simply loose its LSD effect rather than have it permanently lock up, so i doubt this is the problem. However i also cant understand why someone would want to put a fully locked diff into a STOCK gtr.  

Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated.

hey,

sounds interesting.. does it skip around corners? and your right LSD's usually from my experience stop working as they wear.. like one of mine has.. but it could depend on what sort of lsd unit it is.. ill check with some sources i have and post another reply tomorrow... if you want to i can look at it depending on what i come up with.. talk soon..

Hi All,

Seeing as we are talking about diffs i was hoping to get some thoughts on a situation i have with the diff in my 32 gtr. I only picked the car up recently and the diff seems to be fully locked no matter what the conditions. Real annoying. Ive changed the oil and it made no difference. So my thoughts are that its either stuffed or been intentionally locked.  

I dont know a whole lot about diffs, but i would have thought if it was "stuffed" that it would simply loose its LSD effect rather than have it permanently lock up, so i doubt this is the problem. However i also cant understand why someone would want to put a fully locked diff into a STOCK gtr.  

Any thoughts/feedback would be much appreciated.

hi again..

i found out some info today.. unless yours is minispool in which case there isnt much you can do about it (besides buy an lsd unit).. heres what i can tell you

aparently the gtr's came out with five different LSD units.. viscous, mechanical and clutches are probably the most common.. clutch lsd centres if they fail they act as an open wheeler only spinning one wheel... viscous lsd centres can go either way, wither lock or open depends on what fails (i would have thought more often open wheeler) and finally mechanical ( which i think yours possibly would be) which will lock when stuffed usually.. if your experiencing under steer and skipping around corners (possibly not all the time) then id say this is what you have and its stuffed..

whatever you do dont just rip the diff out and chuck it.. people will pay top dollar for mechanical lsd units (stuffed or not) because they are hard to find.. you'd want to rebuild yours if possible.. hope it helps... let me know how you go

john

Hi,

I have a dilemma, if this is in the wrong section, mods please move it.

My diff in my car makes clunking noises, but only when turning and moving very slowly, i.e. car park, but only when i accelerate, is this a mech LSD or locked diff?

David

hey mechanical lsd units that are stuffed clunk around corners when moving slow

hi again..  

i found out some info today.. unless yours is minispool in which case there isnt much you can do about it (besides buy an lsd unit).. heres what i can tell you

aparently the gtr's came out with five different LSD units.. viscous, mechanical and clutches are probably the most common.. clutch lsd centres if they fail they act as an open wheeler only spinning one wheel... viscous lsd centres can go either way, wither lock or open depends on what fails (i would have thought more often open wheeler) and finally mechanical ( which i think yours possibly would be) which will lock when stuffed usually.. if your experiencing under steer and skipping around corners (possibly not all the time) then id say this is what you have and its stuffed..

whatever you do dont just rip the diff out and chuck it.. people will pay top dollar for mechanical lsd units (stuffed or not) because they are hard to find.. you'd want to rebuild yours if possible..  hope it helps... let me know how you go

john

Hey thanks for the info. It should be taken out this coming week so ill let you know what the outcome is. Im not sure what im gonna do to fix the problem as yet... But ill let you know what the problem is and may be bounce some ideas off ya.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...