Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust Split Dump/Front Pipes for GTR

MSRB26

By MSRB26,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

MSRB26 Enthusiast

MSRB26

Posted
Posted

Due to the amount of interest in these front pipes on the forum i thought i would organise a group buy.

For this to go ahead we need the following:

Minimum 5 sets

50% deposit prior to order (other 50% paid when goods are picked up)

The price for these will be $1,100 delivered to Sydney all taxes/shipping etc included. For people outside the Sydney area that cannot pickup the only additional charge will be shipping from Sydney to you.

Please bear in mind that while internet companies may quote a cheaper price for these once you include shipping costs and taxes they are condsiderably more expensive to the tune of $1,400 to $1,500 by the time they are here.

I will leave this open for people until the end of this month (June) for people to express interest, if there is not 5 people willing to pay a deposit on 30 June the buy will not go ahead.

This group buy has been made possible buy Advan Performance so you are buying from a reputable company in Australia that will provide receipts.

Here is a pic of the front pipes but please note this is only half the front the pipes.... the rear piece is not pictured in this pic. If someone wants pics of the complete pipes post here and i will get some.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/ido0...9s/55927fba.jpg

1. paulR32gtr

2. Lucien

3.

4.

5.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75829-trust-split-dumpfront-pipes-for-gtr/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Andrea, Richard here. we have met a couple of times at WSID and weekend before last at Advan (I drive a gunmetal 32GTR).

hmm, that really is a good price for those delivered, considering how much they are even when buying from a backyard net business

ATM I am just tossing up between going Big Single, or sticking with low mount twins. If I decide to stick with twins I think I may get these to keep me happy in the mean time. Would it be too much trouble to get a fitting price from Advan for us?

Thanks,

Richard

MSRB26 Enthusiast

MSRB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Richard :D

I have tried to get the best possible price for them and i think i have. Better than any internet backyard company i have found.

I am in the same situation as you deciding if i should stick with twins or go for the single, it's a tough choice :confused: I really love these pipes and if i get a set i think i will cry if i ever scrape them on a speed hump.

I will get an price estimate on fitment for everyone as a guide. Because the turbos have to come off there will be a few hours involved.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah, it is a very nice price.

That would be great on fitting estimate :D

They certainly are the nicest looking GTR dumps/fronts I've ever seen.

Cheers,

Richard

MSRB26 Enthusiast

MSRB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have had requests for details of what you get so here is a pic of the complete system, nothing else is required.

extention_fpipe.JPG

Remember only 50% ($550) is required in a months time and the rest after the goods arrive which would be approx 3-4 weeks after order is placed so it's the perfect way to spend your tax refund cheque :O

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

:wavey:

:)

I was just wondering if you had any word yet on a fitting estimate? Doesn't have to be a firm price for us to beat them about the head with, just an estimate would be fine :D

Thanks.

MSRB26 Enthusiast

MSRB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, Due to the fact that the turbos have to come off to fit dump pipes on a GTR there is quite a bit of labour involved unfortunatly as well as costs of coolant etc due to the turbos coming off. So, you would be looking at a cost of approx $700 fitment including coolant etc. I have no idea how that compares to other shops though.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

that seem reasonably fair if the turbos have to be removed. If that's the case it would definately be at least a whole days labour.

I will consider what to do... perhaps it may be worthwhile to spend another few K and get turbos at the same time...

Thanks for chasing that up. I'll have a think and let you know before the deadline.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

While your doing to turbos, its probably worth doing the manifolds ... :)

Its a shit of a job to change the dump pipes, but its quite possible for the home mechanic over a few days if you feel like saving the cash.

LW.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Will these bolt onto the standard R32 GTR turbos ? How about the cat at the other end? If so put me down for a set - should be in perfect time for my next trip out to Racepace.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Andrea, you certainly are tempting me. I have been thinking about going to big single route, purely because I love the sound of an external wastegate. but my head tells me i'll be better off with a set of 2530s or similar.

I will get back to you before your deadline.

thanks.

MSRB26 Enthusiast

MSRB26

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No problem Richard, If yourself an lwells decide to purchase then we only need one more for it to go ahead, no pressure or anything lol :jk:

I too love the sound of an external gate but the power that can be made from smallish twins with the right setup is hard to look past, the legalities of the screamer is what worries me.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...