Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys. had a few dramas with these boxes.... the lids are so damn hard to fold neatly.

ive come up with a new design, let me know what you think. if it does or doesnt worry you.

Airbox_Side_modded.jpg

Airbox_Side.JPG

ill be using counter sunk allen head screws, so they sit flush with the top, they will also be silver so they wont stand out.

its just so hard to fold the edges over, doing it the other way means all i have to do is cut the shape out and bend some tabs over for mounting the lid.

if you all want the original design, let me know, ill find another way to do it.

cheers

Linton

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeh i know the bottom pic looks better dave, but its much harder to get a nice fold. you must remember also that the other pic is photoshopped. it will look much better than it does there. if you want the bottom pic, it requires more labour and more tidy up work.

yeh the screws wont come loose. they havent ever for me, they arent under any stress or movement, so i dont see why they would. but anyway, they wont come loose.

cheers

Linton

thanks gruntin.

im on holidays for 2 weeks now, ive got some in the making, just gotta do the lids and then i can get some out, make some money, buy more stuff, make some for different cars, sell some more, make some more money, quit my job, make heaps more, sell heaps more, move out to bigger premises....hahah the list goes on....help me help you.

cheers

Linton

hey guys, due to the different lid design, i have to buy some extra bits, which incurs a price rise to you guys....sorry, but its either a price rise for parts, or a price rise for labour. me personally, would rather, a price rise for parts. hehehe sorry bout dat.

airboxes will now be $130, sorry but it has to be done.

ive got a heap im making, will be ready to send out by the end of the week.

first 5 ppl to PM me with their intercooler piping setup and address, get my account details!!! yaaaay.

cheers

Linton

  • 3 weeks later...

If you have any doubts as to whether it is legal - go onto the RTA website, and email their technical section, they got back to me quickly in regards to legality of turbo timers in NSW and i'm sure they will help you with this.

They are the ones that monitor the rules and regs of what the ADR's are for NSW so i'd suggest contacting them..

The police are there to enforce them.. and in some cases.. very ruthlessly..

are you sure its not defectable?!?!  It looks great!  wouldn't mind doing that with my car, if you're 100% sure its not defectable :)

Normally about Sydney Moanie they will have to be engineered to be legal. Our engineer has passed all the ones we have fitted to cars and once engineered they are 100% legal. The only thing our engineer has said is that you may be required to do a drive by noise test to ensure the box isnt to loud :confused: damned if i know why but no one has been asked for one as yet

Hey Linton i stuck mine in today and it looks great got to work out a way to get some air in there however no where to pipe anything with the stock cooler pipes =(

Many thanks for the box bro ... tell me when you come up with some other stuff !!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...