Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Even when I find a box it's all the little things you need that make this difficult.

Not having been through this with a Skyline before I can only guess what is required.

My list so far if anyone cares to comment.

Gearbox/ bellhousing bolts/ g/b crossmember/ mount/ brackets?/ coverplate?/ clutchfork/ release bearing/ nuts and bolts etc.

Flywheel/ flywheel bolts/ spigot bearing/ pressureplate and bolts/ clutchplate/ slave cyl. and bolts/hyd. lines/ master cyl./ pedalbox with nuts and bolts.

Gearstick boot and surround/ gearknob/ instrument cluster surround.

Speedo cable/ loom for reverse light switch, inhibitor switch bypass, gearstick position sensors.

Manual ECU

Tailshaft

Starter motor?

Anything else I've overlooked or maybe something I've listed is unnecessary.

Anyway let me know if you have any of these bits for sale.

Thankyou.

i have the parts i have listed here in toowoomba about 1 hr from brissy like i say $200 cash for everything i have here....

Considering the need for every nut and bolt I think my best bet is a half cut.

I'm keeping your parts in mind in case someone offers me a package minus the bits you have.

I don't want to rush out and buy all the main bits and then find I still need dozens of small bits of little value that noone could be bothered looking for.

some one posted that they got quoted 2k to do a full manual conversion on a r33, if you know much about r33 the boxes arent cheap, so thats really really good price, i wouold sugest going and finding that thread (it was only a few days ago) and i tihnk it was in brissy to. For 2k fully converted, using the stronger rb25 box, id go for it

  • 2 weeks later...

If you can buy all the bigger items, all the smaller nuts and bolts should be able to be bought from Nissan. Expect to pay around $1200 for a complete kit with most nuts and bolts.

P.S you need to add a manual dash instrument cluster to your list of goodies

you're going to be bumping forever as you're not going to find a complete set anytime soon.. its easier / cheaper to pick up the individual parts as I have had to do.. whats a few bolts anyhow?

  • 1 month later...

Ok, I've got an R33 g/box coming.

I need R33 slave cylinder and R32 gtr speedo drive in addition to most of the parts listed in post #3.

I no longer require driveshaft, starter motor, ecu, gearknob or speedo cable.

Let me know what you've got.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have an R33 GTS25t 5 speed complete. Came out of a car with just 80000k on it it and it's yours for $1100.00. I can also supply an RB20DET box from a R32 GTSt for $400.00.

I have a billet STEEL flywheel and VL Turbo clutch plate all brand new.

Contact me by PM or [email protected]

IF your still interested.

Cheers,

Dennis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...