Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I need some advice on replacement rod bearings for an R32 RB20DET GTS4. I have no idea where to get these from. Does anyone know of a good source?

Also the job itself looks labour intensive but not too difficult, is there any traps in doing this job. The car is fitted with an auto box.

Thanks

Turbine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75945-rb20det-conrod-bearing-replacement/
Share on other sites

Your local Nissan dealer should be able to get them.

"Working on RB-series engine" and "not too difficult" are incompatible terms! If the engine is still in the car, then have fun - you need to drop the sump. To do that, you need to dis-assemble the front suspension. And you probably need to remove the X-member - which requires an engine crane or block-and-tackle to support the engine while you do the job.

If you don't already have one, get yourself a good tension wrench for tightening the cap bolts.

So blind_e4lk

What you are saying is that i cant just pull the engine off the sump assy and leave the front wheel drive system in the car.???

Ok, what are these cap bolts?? are the head bolts?? not sure what you mean their.

Turbine

So blind_e4lk

What you are saying is that i cant just pull the engine off the sump assy and leave the front wheel drive system in the car.???

It might be an easy way to separate the sump and block, but it could well be a b*****d getting it back together. But the amount of rubbish you need to remove to lift the engine out could well make the "drop the sump" route so much easier.

As I said, "work on RB-series engine" and "not difficult" are totally incompatible terms.

Ok, what are these cap bolts?? are the head bolts?? not sure what you mean their.

Turbine

The other half of the conrod end. The conrod has 2 semi-circular bits, where the bearings sit, that are bolted together around the crankshaft. Make sure the bearings are around the right way, and the caps go back on in the correct orientation to the rod.

Yeah you need to measure up the crank to get the right bearings.

ACL make bearings for rb25, 26 not 30, not sure about rb20 tho :D They are as good or better than Nissan bearings and 25% of the price :wave:

Just my opinion, but if you are going to go to all the effort for the bearings, pull the whole engine, have the block, rods, crank checked. Hone the block. Reco the head (all new valve stem seals. Reassemble with the new bearings and enjoy a brand new engine ready for a couple of hundred thousand klm. :D

Would probably cost 50-100% more than just bearings but its a much better result. I understand bearings only is a common plan in Japan, probably due to much higher labour rates. I'm pretty sure that my rb26 had had bearings only done in jp, it required a full rebuild within 3 months of landing....probably because the real problem was the crank was not straight when they did the bearings, so they spun again very soon.

Yeh it's a good idea Duncan. I guess I'm a bit hesitant to even pull the engine out, seeing as it's my mums car and she stresses when it's in peices. But the end result will be like you say, a brand new engine that will last for years.

Cheers Duncan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...