Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

i am thinking of selling my car and have not been in the skyline game for long and i dont have much idea what it would be worth.

so basically i just need some help with a ruff value of my car,

so here we go:

CAR:

1989 impul spec r32-r skyline (4 door) also number 187 out of 250 made.

rb20det

auto

100,xxx km

MODS:

hks intercooler

hks mushroom pod filter

custom oil catch can

custom boost upgrade set at 0.8bar

impul 3" catback zorst

impul front strut brace

impul computer

kyb adjustable coilovers

slotted and crossed drilled rotors

original p1 buddyclub wheels (front 16x7.5", rear 16x8.5")

good condition falken tyres

full impul spec bodykit

fibre glass bonnet

momo steering wheel

omori guages (boost, oil temp and oil pressure)

greddy turbo timer

vdo mp3 headunit

alpine type s front speakers

tinted windows

(pretty sure that is all mods listed)

recently resprayed silver with black with blue pearl bonnet

front bar has been re-fibre glassed and renforced b4 respray.

so basically just need a ruff idea on what it would be worth,

any help would be good,

thanks

matt.

hey mate

Ruffels here, the kid round the corner with the white 33

like i said, i recon u could ask 18k for it, perhalps more

would be interesting to see what people have to say about this

is an awsome example of a 4 door 32 !

-Ruffels

yeah baz... keeping in mind its a limited edition Impul... in imaculate condition

how many of the 250 made would be in australia, and in this condition

i think its worth more in my opinion

-Ruffels

Looks awesome man, but I think the auto thing might be an issue, as its probably more of the "DRIVE ME" style. So anyone who wanted it would probably see auto as a downside, like maybe even start thinking in their head, "+ manual conversion", that makes it more than what you are getting and pretty pricey.

Maybe you can find someone who is too unco to drive manual...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...