Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by JiMiH

Does it hurt the engine/gearbox/clutch/anything?

Cheers! :(

Yes, yes , yes and yes unless you are running a sequential boxed, fullshift rev cut Motec or Autronic then don't try it.

Ken

It is possible to do, by matching revs, but the likelyhood of getting it right is slim. You can do this with a dogbox arrangement as there are no synchros.

The other option is to have your foot flat to the boards, clutch in, change gear, clutch out. If you keep your foot hard on the accelerator then you won't loose as much revs as normal shifting. This has the negative effect of loading up the clutch and gearbox.

In general you won't make sufficient time gains to make this worthwhile, as the risk of damaging some part increases.

See'ya :burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

The other option is to have your foot flat to the boards, clutch in, change gear, clutch out. If you keep your foot hard on the accelerator then you won't loose as much revs as normal shifting. This has the negative effect of loading up the clutch and gearbox.

ahh right this is actually what I was reffering to :D

i thought this was called flat shifting!

my bad!

so does this damage the clutch and gearbox when you load it up?

most comps have a setting

you keep your foot burried it cuts ignition timming but not the fuel

pop the clutch and boom lots of zorst flame but a very quick spool of turbo casu of excess fuel

still very harsh on you clutch and box

worth it for the flames if you have a shtter of a car

pete

JiMiH,

I think flat shifting is not using the clutch, and power shifting is not lifing your foot from the accelerator. But it could be the other way round.

I use power shifting while at the drags, it provides more punch between gears and keeps the revs higher in the power band. I do have a twin-plate clutch, so I think both it and the box can handle it fine.

It's worth giving a go, might improve times slightly.

See'ya:burnout:

jimih i wouldnt do it unless .1 of a second is important enough to you to justify the cost. It is not good for the box or clutch. Superbikes/GP Bikes have a special button to do this, but a bikes gearbox is different. V8 Supercars have a gearbox that can cop it. If you can afford to go through gearboxes then go crazy.

Agreed - it's not worth it. One thing I do occasionally is to blip the throttle while the clutch is on the floor. Keeps the revs up without the sudden shock through the driveline.

I've always referred to flat shifting as holding your foot flat to the boards (hence the term 'flat') and changing gears as normal. The other method you refer to I've always called 'clutchless shifting'. This may or may not be the correct terminology but it's the terminology I've always used.

I would NOT bother with clutchless shifting either, unless you have a constant mesh/sequential gearbox in your car, or you're on a bike.

If your car is primarily a road car, treat it as such... just drive it like a much faster version of how you drive on the streets.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've always flat changed but the rev's don't go higher as they don't have time. :)

I learnt in a Mild TE 250 Cortina 4 speed.

I soon learnt how to pull out the gearbox and replace syncro's and especially select forks.

VL 5 speed 3ltr.. Started crunching second after only a few quick changes.

The V8 T5 Commodore gearbox didn't like it, she started to pop out of gears and crunch second and third.

Skyline well so far so good. No crunches, just an input shaft bearing whine that was there from the start but is now getting worse.

Originally posted by gtrken

unless you are running a sequential boxed, fullshift rev cut Motec or Autronic then don't try it.

Or a T-SPORT Flat-Shift can do the full shift rev cut what ECU you have. $280. Can someone please try one of these, so I can find out if they are worth the free plugs I keep giving them?

Originally posted by Revhead

I've always referred to flat shifting as holding your foot flat to the boards (hence the term 'flat') and changing gears as normal.  The other method you refer to I've always called 'clutchless shifting'.  This may or may not be the correct terminology but it's the terminology I've always used.

Yeah I was referring to the bit that you reffered to as flat shifting.

Or as GTS-t VPSEC says, Power shifting.

Cheers guys.

On the web page they suggest setting it about 2000revs below redline......that maybe ok for gearchanging ....but I don't fancy dropping the clutch at 5700 on the start line!!! especially with around 17psi boost

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...