Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl!

Just wondering if anyone can tell me alittle about manual boost controllers. I've seen a couple of these Turbosmart ones.

An In Cabin type which allows for boost adjustment on the run.

And a Single Stage one that provides fast boost response with one adjustable boost level. Apparently ideal for turbo cars without factory boost controllers and you can switch between standard and high boost. Has like a rocket launcher Switch too.

Any help would be appreciated!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77684-manual-boost-controllers/
Share on other sites

Dave,

I think most people start off with a bleed-valve type setup then move on to an EBC system later on. I like the fact I can have 2 boost settings with my EBC - Makes for more enjoyable driving sometimes when you just want stock cruisy boost and not boost that gets cranked up at 1/4 throttle ;)

If ya want some advice, go with an EBC straight up - A Hybrid one can be had for around $300~ new, or you can pick one up 2nd hand, in cabin control is where it's at :D

Hey Dude ,

If you do want to start with a bleed valve , use the simple Turbosmart one ,

they are "Gated" which simply means that they have a 5 psi check valve in them , which means no wastegate creep til atleast 5psi...... short version = better throttle response :P

If you use their "Single stage"(stock & Hi) one & your car is an auto you can use a relay to the Power/Norm/Snow button to fire it ( I did ;P) so when the auto is set to Power , the boost is set to High! All good. :burnout:

Go the turbotech ones Mark is selling in the Forced Induction Performance thread. I bought one for $35 and it works mint. Hold 12PSI perfectly, no spiking and no boost loss.

Don't be a weenie, u don't need 2 settings, you just need to be able to drive better then strich9 ;)

Yeah EBCs are sweet but a whole lot more then this controller....

Thanks guys!

I do prefer an EBC type, but I was under the impression that they were heaps expensive!

Rep003, I like that idea, I was thinking sort of the same thing :) I could probably do that for now and change to an EBC once I get some more cash together!

See I actually want to run more than 12psi, say 15 or so, care of my mate Kym ;) so do you think the manual type would handle that? (of course I'll be putting in a FMIC)

Anyway I'll have a think and a bit more research around, thanks again guys!!

  SideWaysChef said:
Hey man i have a Blitz in cabin boost controller for sale

my car has been running up to 1.2 bar of boost through it

is for sale, name your price

personal message me or email at  

alanschmidt@inthemix.com.au

Thanks man but I've decided to go the PFC direction with EBC option, just need to save up now! Thanks anyway mate! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...