Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As long as there all around the same number it should be fine.

Thx for the reply.

Yeh that's what my mechanic said. The ODO says ~61000, with a Tomei speedo, but even the dealer agreed that's probably unlikely the real KMs (I've been very happy with the honesty of these guys, it's really worked for me and brought me on board).

Mechanic they are all the same, 138, that that indicated probably up to 100 thou kms, but nice treatment and no abuse. The car's condition is excellent.

And MAN is it FAAASSSSTTT! :crazy: :crazy:

yeh when i bought my gtr i got the dude to get it comp tested b4 i bought?145 across all six?why would they be different?less kms maybe

Yeh quite simply engine wear will reduce compression. If there is variance between cylinders, that shows abuse or ill-health, so I am told from decent sources. Compression will just reduce over time - over KMs.

I am aware motors that have been sitting for some time will show lower compression when first started - I saw this with an SR20DET of mine. It increased by 10 after a week or two.

However, I've flogged this thing enough myself - so I don't see that being the case. I will however, as my mechanic suggested (best mate) check it in a few weeks of driving. He old man, who runs the shop, reckoned it won't change since I've already flogged it. We'll see who's right ;)

They're always arguing... lol :chairshot

Mechanic they are all the same, 138, that that indicated probably up to 100 thou kms, but nice treatment and no abuse.

I'm starting to miss a lot of words when I'm typing posts. I think that drinking on the weekend might've actually damaged my frontal lobe or something...

:bonk:

Hi Andrew, That compression is a bit low and your right in the fact well at leasts its the same over all 6, but the reading does tend to indicate that the motor is now old (obviously) but is probably whats the word 'rattlier' / not so tight anymore. A fresh gtr engine comes in at around 180. Mine is an aussie delivered one and when i bought it had 108k on the clock and comp tested in the 160 accross all six.

My suggestion try to find a tighter one, sure it may go hard.... for now.

Hi Andrew, That compression is a bit low and your right in the fact well at leasts its the same over all 6, but the reading does tend to indicate that the motor is now old (obviously) but is probably whats the word 'rattlier' / not so tight anymore. A fresh gtr engine comes in at around 180. Mine is an aussie delivered one and when i bought it had 108k on the clock and comp tested in the 160 accross all six.  

My suggestion try to find a tighter one, sure it may go hard.... for now.

But I love everything else about the car! It's my only concern... :goddam:

I could just take it, and expect to replace rings, bearings and gaskets in a year or so. I'm guessing 3-4k for that. Whaddya think?

6-10k unless you can do all the labour yourself.....

Well my best mate is a mechanic. I would get cheap labour, but not REAL cheap (they still have a business to run, and he has a partner, and he don't work outta hours, much like me).

Not speaking off full rebuild, just the rings and necessary bits like bearings gaskets and stuff...

Less than 6k you think Duncan?

I hope so !!!

Pistons and rings 1300

head reco 500

bottom end clean, hone 300

crank and rods test and check, balance all 300

gasket kit 500

water pump 200

n1 oil pump 500

rod bolts 100

head bolts 50

thats 4k to get started.

then labour for engine in and out say 10 hours

+ actual build time

If you really like the car and you feel you are getting a good price and have factored in the engine condition go for it.

How long have you been looking for a GTR? Can I ask how much this one is (don't reply if question not appropriate) There are lots of really good ones out there its just a matter of finding one. It took me about 3-4 months.

If you really like the car and you feel you are getting a good price and have factored in the engine condition go for it.

How long have you been looking for a GTR? Can I ask how much this one is (don't reply if question not appropriate) There are lots of really good ones out there its just a matter of finding one. It took me about 3-4 months.

The car was up for $27990. I'm trading two silvias, fairly hammered in terms of paint & interior, one Q, one K with mods (GT-SS, Apex Hybrid, 2450lb clutch, 3" mild steel, z32 brakes, etc). So the two silvys + 16,100. I could do better with a private sale on the silvys, but it so much hassle and with their nick and people test driving and stuff - I really can't be arsed.

I've been looking just a few weeks; I'm probably impatient to my own detriment, but I don't see myself finding much any better, without flying to Japan. (?)

Thing is I'm looking for something virginal. I don't want a modded, hammered car - it's condition is fantastic. Color is great. Brembos (big deal for me), great interior. Spotless engine back (the slave cyl has leaked at some point and stripped a little paint but it's well rusted on that little patch (surface) and hasn't seeped even with me really CLAMPING on the anchors, so I believe that's history.

Here's my spiel on the car I posted, with some (nokia) pics....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=77434

Seriously, tell me like it is. I want feedback :)

You say the plenum hasn't lost much paint so thats always a good sign.

My honest opinion - the comp ratio would worry me. I realise you are able to trade in your current cars and the appeal of Brembo brakes is always tempting (however this can always be done later, some people say they are over rated, never experienced brembos - another thread.lol)

I would be surprised though if a perfectly standard car returned that comp ratio, gut feeling thinks it may not have been so standard with its previous owner.

Personal choice I would skip it.

End of the day anything is fixable if you really like the rest of the car which sounds pretty good.

Pistons and rings 1300

head reco 500

bottom end clean, hone 300

crank and rods test and check, balance all 300

gasket kit 500

water pump 200

n1 oil pump 500

rod bolts 100

head bolts 50

thats 4k to get started.

then labour for engine in and out say 10 hours  

+ actual build time

Scuse ignorance, but couldn't you change rings, bearings and gaskets without doing a lot of this stuff? I mean pumps, head reco, bottom end clean, balancing? I understand once the engine is down you might as well do it all, and I would, but just a Q from curiousity...

Still, when compression is gone I guess valves n stuff (head reco) has to be done - cos that could be the issue. Then, that could no doubt be tested.

I guess the answer is no, that'd be silly :)

i actually looked at the comp test i had again and said all 150 so i gather thats ok for a 15year old car

Yes, that's really quite good I would say! No rebuild at any point? What KMs?

I wish mine was 150. I've done a lot of posting to old sites (S13 related, etc) to knowledgeable people who've done lots tuning etc. The consensus is the motor will be fine, but if I boost the shit out of it I'm in trouble. Boosting isn't my primary goal, I've owned turbo jap cars long enough to understand it's all about flow - not rising boost. Sure, if I wanna race or whatever, I'll up it. But as I learnt with the Silvia, you can change turbos and intake/exhaust etc and get more power at less boost, thereby giving your engine a longer life. This is my intention with the GT-R. If and/or when I want to go high boost, I'll be prepared to tear the motor down.

There is no variance in the cylinders, so it's just age. There is also the vague possibilty that my mechanic's gauge is not spot on.

He also did not release fuel pressure, as the manual states. I would imagine though that if anything that would give a higher reading (fuel pressure added to the cyl compression). He didn't seem to think it mattered (the fuel pressure being there).

well you mentioned the manual so youve probabaly allready read this but anyway

Standard is 171psi at 300rpm

Limit value is 128psi at 300rpm

maximum variance limit between cylinders is 14psi

so 138 is still above that, but not a huge amount

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...