Jump to content
SAU Community

  

266 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I like one of the previous posts about the Turbo Timer

Go set it for 10 mins and lock the car.

Jump in and set to go!

Got me looking now for one.

Be worth the $120 to be able to have a nicely warmed motor.

Particularly after a night shift when I'm straight out the door and into city traffic and duckin' weavin'

No time for warm ups there!

u could do that or u could just get a remote engine starter like me and turn the car on from inside the house and let it idle for a bit

you only really need enough time for everything to be covered in oil. 30sec to a min should be plenty of time. Idling might help with lubing up the engine but the cat doesn't like it and will kill it faster.

Correct me if i am wrong but after everything is covered in oil the only problem is parts heating up (expanding) at differnt rates. So if you wait untill the water is up to temp then the whole block should be nice and warm due to the hot radiator fluid running through everywhere. So once your water temp is up you should be right to have some fun.

Aslong as you don't thrash it for the first few minutes it will be fine.

I usually back out of the garage, and close it (around 30secs) and then take off slowly until i get out of my suburb (3-4mins)

When i start my car however, the oil light stays on for about 2seconds then goes off.. is this normal??

The oil atm is sitting halfway inbetween L and H (on the dipstick)

Just drive straight off and don't boost or rev too much for the first 5 miuntes!!  

If you idle for longer thatn 20 seconds you are:

1. Wasting fuel

2. Increasing pollution

3. Wasting some of your life

4. NOT doing your car any favours.  

 

These are modern cars.  They are made to be driven straight off.

CASE CLOSED

My car won't move if I don't idle it for atleast 1-2mins. It just dies if you put the accel in.

My car is also not stock, so it wasn't "made" to be driven straight off it was made to make more power, handle better and stop better.

Does that mean I'm injuring it and I should try to make it be able to take off in around 20secs?

most oil lights weill stay on for a few seconds. AS long as it turns off and stays off then you should be fine. Aslong as you check you fluids regularly (AS WE ALL MUST) there will be no problem.

Thanks for clearing that up, i was starting to worry!!:P I check it 1-2times a month.

My car won't move if I don't idle it for atleast 1-2mins. It just dies if you put the accel in.

My car is also not stock, so it wasn't "made" to be driven straight off it was made to make more power, handle better and stop better.

Does that mean I'm injuring it and I should try to make it be able to take off in around 20secs?

Are you running an a/m ecu? Your car shouldn't really die if you put your foot down when it is cold.

If you have done any engine mods then warming it up at least a little bit would be a good idea. But the best way to warm up your car is to baby it on the streets.

idle for a minute or so, then take it easy till i see some decent temp, usually about 10 minutes or so. which sucks cause it only takes about 10.5 minutes to get to work!

Sounds like you need to find a longer way to work.

Have you guys had a lok in the car manual (if you got it) I have had a look through a few differnt cars manauals and they all say the best way to get the car up to temp is to drive it normally. They also say that excessive idling with kill your cat(if you have one).

idle for a minute or so, then take it easy till i see some decent temp, usually about 10 minutes or so. which sucks cause it only takes about 10.5 minutes to get to work!

Me too!!

I take a detour when going to work now though. It's still only takes about 15mins, use to take 10.

Yeah, I have a "startup routine" in the morning.

Get in the car and start it up. Then put the belt on, turn off the TCS, and adjust the stereo. Maybe clean out the centre console of the various bits of paper that gather in there.

When I see the revs drop from its "cold idle" 1500RPM and the oil pressure drops from 6kPa, I'll drive it at low RPM and load for a while. Luckily there's downhills away from my street, so I'll just select whatever gear keeps it at the speed limit without using the pedals for as long as I can.

Tend to warm it up atleast until the oil temp stabilises.. once it's there - i'm happy.. it's happy..

not good for any cars to just start up and thrash off, can cause a bit of damage - I think.. might be wrong though..

bit like stretching before going for a run eh! if you don't do it, you'll regret it.. if you do - everything is sweet..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...