Jump to content
SAU Community

  

266 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I like one of the previous posts about the Turbo Timer

Go set it for 10 mins and lock the car.

Jump in and set to go!

Got me looking now for one.

Be worth the $120 to be able to have a nicely warmed motor.

Particularly after a night shift when I'm straight out the door and into city traffic and duckin' weavin'

No time for warm ups there!

u could do that or u could just get a remote engine starter like me and turn the car on from inside the house and let it idle for a bit

you only really need enough time for everything to be covered in oil. 30sec to a min should be plenty of time. Idling might help with lubing up the engine but the cat doesn't like it and will kill it faster.

Correct me if i am wrong but after everything is covered in oil the only problem is parts heating up (expanding) at differnt rates. So if you wait untill the water is up to temp then the whole block should be nice and warm due to the hot radiator fluid running through everywhere. So once your water temp is up you should be right to have some fun.

Aslong as you don't thrash it for the first few minutes it will be fine.

I usually back out of the garage, and close it (around 30secs) and then take off slowly until i get out of my suburb (3-4mins)

When i start my car however, the oil light stays on for about 2seconds then goes off.. is this normal??

The oil atm is sitting halfway inbetween L and H (on the dipstick)

Just drive straight off and don't boost or rev too much for the first 5 miuntes!!  

If you idle for longer thatn 20 seconds you are:

1. Wasting fuel

2. Increasing pollution

3. Wasting some of your life

4. NOT doing your car any favours.  

 

These are modern cars.  They are made to be driven straight off.

CASE CLOSED

My car won't move if I don't idle it for atleast 1-2mins. It just dies if you put the accel in.

My car is also not stock, so it wasn't "made" to be driven straight off it was made to make more power, handle better and stop better.

Does that mean I'm injuring it and I should try to make it be able to take off in around 20secs?

most oil lights weill stay on for a few seconds. AS long as it turns off and stays off then you should be fine. Aslong as you check you fluids regularly (AS WE ALL MUST) there will be no problem.

Thanks for clearing that up, i was starting to worry!!:P I check it 1-2times a month.

My car won't move if I don't idle it for atleast 1-2mins. It just dies if you put the accel in.

My car is also not stock, so it wasn't "made" to be driven straight off it was made to make more power, handle better and stop better.

Does that mean I'm injuring it and I should try to make it be able to take off in around 20secs?

Are you running an a/m ecu? Your car shouldn't really die if you put your foot down when it is cold.

If you have done any engine mods then warming it up at least a little bit would be a good idea. But the best way to warm up your car is to baby it on the streets.

idle for a minute or so, then take it easy till i see some decent temp, usually about 10 minutes or so. which sucks cause it only takes about 10.5 minutes to get to work!

Sounds like you need to find a longer way to work.

Have you guys had a lok in the car manual (if you got it) I have had a look through a few differnt cars manauals and they all say the best way to get the car up to temp is to drive it normally. They also say that excessive idling with kill your cat(if you have one).

idle for a minute or so, then take it easy till i see some decent temp, usually about 10 minutes or so. which sucks cause it only takes about 10.5 minutes to get to work!

Me too!!

I take a detour when going to work now though. It's still only takes about 15mins, use to take 10.

Yeah, I have a "startup routine" in the morning.

Get in the car and start it up. Then put the belt on, turn off the TCS, and adjust the stereo. Maybe clean out the centre console of the various bits of paper that gather in there.

When I see the revs drop from its "cold idle" 1500RPM and the oil pressure drops from 6kPa, I'll drive it at low RPM and load for a while. Luckily there's downhills away from my street, so I'll just select whatever gear keeps it at the speed limit without using the pedals for as long as I can.

Tend to warm it up atleast until the oil temp stabilises.. once it's there - i'm happy.. it's happy..

not good for any cars to just start up and thrash off, can cause a bit of damage - I think.. might be wrong though..

bit like stretching before going for a run eh! if you don't do it, you'll regret it.. if you do - everything is sweet..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...