Jump to content
SAU Community

Got my car tuned at CRD results inside!!

kabab

By kabab,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

OZ GTR35 Veteran

OZ GTR35

Posted
Posted

My old R33 now owned by Mik recoreded a 11.7sec I think It had GTRS's. wr hoon will have his R34 on the strip soon with the GTSS's.

My R34 will get to stretch its legs soon with its GTSS's.

7heavn Experienced

7heavn

Posted
Posted
guys,

anyone here know of any gtr's with the gtss &/or gtrs setup that have recorded 1/4 mile times?

 

im am interested in seeing this information as im sure others are as well...

 

marko

Yeh Mik's car from memory think his best is 11.3@125mph std internal rb26 with gtrs's .Think he will be out there again soon has some half decent rubber on the thing now and will be looking for a 10 .

Marko only real way to find out is to get out there and have a go I soppose as every car is differen't . Tell me if you do go out would like to spectate .

Mik Experienced

Mik

Posted
Posted
My old R33 now owned by Mik recoreded a 11.7sec I think It had GTRS's. wr hoon will have his R34 on the strip soon with the GTSS's.

My R34 will get to stretch its legs soon with its GTSS's.

And all the gear bolted onto another car with a set of cams ran an 11.3

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted
A touch off topic here sorry, do gt-rs flow pretty well the same as 2835's? If so they are pretty damn big low mounts

HKS GT-RS are rated at 400ps each, and have the same compressor wheel diameter as the HKS GT2835 which are only rated at about 380ps each (IIRC).

So yes, they are just as big as GT2835s and are MASSIVE low mounts :D

They need a 2.8L or 3.0L stroker to retain low-rpm tractability and torque...

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted
They need a 2.8L or 3.0L stroker to retain low-rpm tractability and torque...

I guess any 'larger than standard' turbos will perform better with an increased capacity bottom end but in discussing this topic I think that 362awkw with 800Nm is quite an achievement on a stock 2.6ltr - yes it is all up & over 5000rpm thru to 8500rpm so the larger bottom 'would' beef up the low rpm...

Marko.

kabab Experienced

kabab

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I guess any 'larger than standard' turbos will perform better with an increased capacity bottom end but in discussing this topic I think that 362awkw with 800Nm is quite an achievement on a stock 2.6ltr - yes it is all up & over 5000rpm thru to 8500rpm so the larger bottom 'would' beef up the low rpm...

 

Marko.

I guess it depends what you want to do with the car.. My setup is more of a street/track setup which is what merli was going for..

Yours is more of a drag setup!!!

I'll overlay the torque curves when i get home should make an interesting comparison....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 only blows hot air

      By Duncan · Posted

      Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • Duncan
      Wires cut underneath shifter cover

      By Duncan · Posted

      You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • TurboTapin
      Leaking Rear Subframe Bushing?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • SeanR32GtSt
      R32 only blows hot air

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...