Jump to content
SAU Community

Low oil pressure??

Ronin 09

By Ronin 09,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

I've got an R33 GTS-T, I've potentially got an oil pressure problem... the gauge sits low at idle (at about 1), but when up in it sits at about 4. Does anyone know if:

1. nissan oil pressure gauges are dodgy

2. nissan oil pressure sensors are dodgy

3. GTS-Ts have dodgy oil pumps.

From the way it drives it seems to be fine.

If it is the oil pump what on average is the cost of part/repair?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7863-low-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites
hitnrun Collaborator

hitnrun

Posted
Posted

Ronin 09,

As far as I know, Nissan don't have dodgey senders/gauges etc. However it is common for the oil pressure sender to fail. This is usually due to poor maintenance rather than a defect in manafacturing.

With regards to your pressure it does seem low. Idle should be around 2 at 6k rpm it should be around 6. The first thing I would do is try an aftermarket gauge. Then replace oil sender, then go from there.

Also check that you are running a high quality synthetic oil Eg Mobil 1 5w-50w. If you search the forums you will find many other suggestions for oil.

Regards,

Tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7863-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-115007
Share on other sites
Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

The Skyline senders are well known to give low readings.

Like hitnrun said, more of a maintance thing that a manufacturing thing.

Mine did this once. I gave it a drink of good qual oil and a change of filter and haven't looked back.

If you start to hear a rattle, turn it off REAL FAST !! :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7863-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-115033
Share on other sites
Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys, haven't heard any spooky noises or anything, so i assume it is the sender. Sometimes tries to stall at idle, but i think the idle is set too low (450-500 RPM)...

I've just got my car fresh from importing, and have not had a chance to change all the fluids yet. Problem is i'm pretty useless mechanically, and all the shops are closed till at least the 6th. I'll report back when i get the fluids changed / a service and get them to look at the pressure sender.

Any recommendations of shops to get my car serviced in Melbourne? Using Evolution R, but they seem pretty $$!

-marcus

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7863-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-115051
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dremen, i've had a couple of oil changes, and it has steadily gotten better. Apparently the sensors are quite sensitive to crap oil. I've used Mobil 1 5-40W, and just last change went to Motul 3000 15-50W. Just use a quality oil, you should be right

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7863-low-oil-pressure/#findComment-308930
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...