Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

When driving my R32 GTR it keeps cutting out (similar feeling to running out of fuel) and when it does this it wont idle it just stalls, then ill start it again and it will idle ok and drive normally for a bit (seconds to a minute or so), then start cutting out again

the feeling when it cuts out at say 2500rpm is very similar to running out of fuel in your tank but a tiny bit different, runs really rough like its dropped half the cylinders and looses all the power completley. its not persistent tho and when it comes good it runs perfectley for a little while (enough to limp home on).

my guess is its a fueling issue of some sort, has anyone come across this problem before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78895-r32-gtr-stallingcutting-outhelp/
Share on other sites

the ignitor module does look a little corroded on the outside, ill take a better look at it

Hey i got the same problem with my 33, but my one is from 3000 rpm travelling at an average st speed, pop it to neutral then the idle jst drops down as if its gonna stall then at one - three times it did stall, but wen i put it back to gear it started running again =S

i have an r32 89 rb20, and yes it is an auto. It had sort of the same prob. kept stalling on me, it still does. but yeah cruisin down the highway it would just cut out...and the kick back in and be fine. The other day it just kept stalling and when it would idle i would try and rev it, when it got to 2500 it would hit like a rev limiter and just back off..and then it would stall. So i would let it sit and it would be fine. But does that explain why it wouldnt do it all the time, and would it be why it does it when i am going down the highway??

EDIT: Someone suggested it could be the crank angle sensor....but the air flow meter sounds interesting....i reset my ecu and it was good for the rest of my trip, so that might be a temporary solution.

Hey i had that before, but i fixed it now, its really quite simple if you dnt know where to start. Firstly do you have an aftermarket BOV? Rev it to 4-5000 rpm then check if the engine is about to die, do it for a cpl of times. If this is the problem then jst swap ur stock bov then try it again if it doesnt fail its definitely your BOV.

It could be alot of things but i know the GTR's have a limp mode built in to the ecu programming. That will limit the revs to 2500 if sumthing is wrong...

Yeah man thats what my importer said. Yeah but sometimes it does not just limit the revs but like cuts out at the 2500. and sometimes it will limit it. I wiped my ecu and it still does it though. So has annoyone got any other ideas.

Lang: In simple mans terms, the loose wiring in the loom...where do i find the loom? :S

the loom is the wiring loom which afaik just means all the wires that go from the ecu to various parts of the engine bay, allthough i think in my case (a freind fixed it) it was to do with the wiring from the airflow meters to the ecu.

the loom is the wiring loom which afaik just means all the wires that go from the ecu to various parts of the engine bay, allthough i think in my case (a freind fixed it) it was to do with the wiring from the airflow meters to the ecu.

ok thanks you

  • 4 weeks later...

I have a very similar problem

the car stalls "randomly", especially after I hit bumps.

monday, I went slowly into gravel, turned the car off, started it, and went about. 15 secs after.. engine died and didn't start again after 5 tries, Fuel pump was priming so that wasn't the prob. I have a recirculation BOV so if it leaks, it goes in behind Z32 MAF. I tried following the wire loom from the connector and it passes right under the A/C oil canister... and the loom was somewhat filled with old oil.

I will for sure to to follow that cable tonight and make sure everything is secure and undamaged.

My car is not in limp mode, I can go to redline with no trouble and with quite a bit of power.. if it's not acting up hehe

I do hear misses at any rpm range... like Highway... at 3000 it will do it but for like 1/2 sec and the engine "starts" back. I will also clean the MAF tonight with electircal contact cleaner

and verify every air path :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...