Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

As the subject says, the poor ScibyLine has been losing power lately, and it's rather annoying. Any suggestions would be most helpful.

* Car is mostly stock in terms of performance... has a cat-back Apex'i RS zorst and an Apex'i Power funnel filter, replacing a HKS super happy filter thingy.

* Changes made lately: Put new filter on and cleaned and de-meshed the AFM. Next lot was new plugs, new gearbox oil, new fuel filter (new filter was because of the power issues, thought it might have been the culprit, no such luck). ECU has been reset a couple of times, made no real changes/improvements.

* Symptoms: Idles rougher than normal, very thub-thub-thub as opposed to the usual smoothness. When accelerating from a stop, there seems to be a hole in the power, ie: the throttle at 50% gives the same acceleration as 30%, not as responsive. You have to give it a bootful to get past this hole and then the turbo will start boosting... although even when the turbo is boosting, it still doesn't have the same power as it used to. Another strange one is when coming to the lights to stop, I put it into neutral, clutch out, brakes on gently, just before it comes to a complete stop, rpm dips and the car phsycially shakes, almost like I've still got the clutch in and I'm engine-braking and letting it stall out...

NB: The clutch plate is dying, but I can usually tell when it's the cause of loss of forward motion. :P

I'm not going to put forth my ideas on what could be the problem, as I don't want to colour people's opinions and ideas... but any suggestions/tips, etc, would be excellent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7936-power-loss-problems-on-the-scibyline/
Share on other sites

Sounds like something may be stopping it from breathing.. The filter is brand new and clean, so that rules out the filter being too dirty. something may be blocking the intake, perhaps, check the filter again. If it's not that, maybe it could be the fuel pump?

Hey old timer. :P nah, no FMIC yet... broke as, badly need a new clutch first... the stock one is like almost mirror finished. :P

K, ran diags before, normal tests claim "ok", but I ran the O2 sensor realtime... and it was flashing on (for "lean") every second, like: lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich... like it was undecided... I decided to deviate from the "Run at 2k rpm" run and revved it up through the rpms, and it was about 50/50 lean/rich... it makes me wonder if my o2 sensor is buggered, because even sitting there, I can take my foot off the noise pedal and it'll pop and fart, indicating to me that it's still running rich, as Nissan programmed it to do.

Any opinions on this?

it could have something to do with removing the screens

it changes the reading the afm gives to the ecu

so try putting the screens back and if that fixes it u will need

a mappable ecu (power fc or similar)

to remove the screens and have it run proparly

sounds like AFM but before you dump it try sparing it with carby cleaner its safe and it will get any gunk of the wire

the afm is a self cleaning unit but it still sometimes gets contaminated

removing the mesh makes no diff its there to stop lage particles entering the afm from either side

hope this helps

Originally posted by slip

mate put the mesh back on your afm, its there for a reason.  did you oil the filter?  I think the 02 sensor doing that is normal, if it was always rich or always lean you'd have a problem.  (note: i think)

Er... a bit hard to put the mesh back on, it's been literally ripped out... only the rear one though, the front one is still there...just like quite a few others have done, with no issues... *shrugs*... filter is dry type... you would think that considering the whole thing about nissan programming the skylines to be on the rich side, it would constantly state rich, or at least, for most of the time.

Probably also should mention that I demeshed the afm because I thought it may help with the problems I've been experiencing (ie, I was having the problems before I did the mesh), although it doesn't seem that way... perhaps I'll borrow a full afm from someone and see what changes it makes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...