Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

airflow correction just bends the signal coming from the airflow meter to the ecu. so it affects both injectors and ign timing.

That's pretty much how I interpreted the function of that setting, hence the question.

I've removed the AFM correction factor(s) and decided to bump timing up from N4L3 : N9L10 +3deg from L3-L8, +2deg L8-L10. Got that map area through ghost tracing off boost run.

Short 15km run home again, difficult to tell driveability improvement, but max knock level 18. 36% inj duty, @3800 mV on the AFM.

I think your approach is ok Paul, just exercise a bit of caution by making sure your A/F is safe.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1

lately i have been using the master timing correction up to 5 degrees and it knocks no more than usual (nothing, always under 15) have noticed only a very slight increase in response and coming onto boost but does not feel any quicker. I will get it retuned soon so just having a fiddle atm.

I am not sure whether to try more as 4-5 degrees seems a lot. I have a feeling my timing has been retarded at the CAS, and the pfc untuned hence the richness and no power.

Edited by siksII

i've changed mine +5 in the first 10x10..

It definetly improved response at slower speeds. feels great. The last week or so i've had it an extra +2... cant seem to notice a differance with that.. except the knock is slightly higher.. (in the 20's) so i'll probs change it back to 5..

siks your pfc isnt realy tuned at all though yeah ?

i had mine moved up 8deg in total and then tried +5 deg in test mode

and it ran even better and not much knocking, lots of heavy load but on light load not much, under 20. but i fried my ecu so no more testing for me

i've changed mine +5 in the first 10x10..

It definetly improved response at slower speeds. feels great. The last week or so i've had it an extra +2... cant seem to notice a differance with that.. except the knock is slightly higher.. (in the 20's) so i'll probs change it back to 5..

siks your pfc isnt realy tuned at all though yeah ?

The deal with mine is i got the car with the powerfc in it, the previous owner had it tuned(i have the reciept for it) but i think the tuner screwed him over and instead of tuning it just backed off the base timing with the CAS.

Recently i took it to a tuning shop and the tuner said it looks like the base map so its probably the case. Also i have ran the car a few times and the MPH and times are not much better than a stock car.

So i dont know 100% if it has been tuned at all or partially, but i do know i will get it retuned as soon as i can afford to get it going like it should!!! It should be a shitload faster, most cars with same mods run around 105-106mph where i only run 99.

paul, sorry to hear about your powerfc, hopefully its a simple fix.

yeah me too, oh welll life goes on. ill work it out

ive moved my base ign map up heaps and its been great

the off boost respones when cold is soooo nce

it drove like a dream and even when on boost was solid as

i think the biggest problem i had was when on a nice smooth ign area it was really advanced and as soon as i floored it it would drop to an unoptimized area and hit some basic timing and almost feel flat, i had plans to sort that area out with datalogit but cooked the ecu tonight, so fiddlesticks!!!

well only wierd thing i found when using the ajdustement on the whole map is that as far as i can tell it affects the idle as well, so the idle is going a bit funny sometimes with the extra timing.

yeah me too, oh welll life goes on. ill work it out

ive moved my base ign map up heaps and its been great

the off boost respones when cold is soooo nce

it drove like a dream and even when on boost was solid as

i think the biggest problem i had was when on a nice smooth ign area it was really advanced and as soon as i floored it  it would drop to an unoptimized area and hit some basic timing and almost feel flat, i had plans to sort that area out with datalogit but cooked the ecu tonight, so fiddlesticks!!!

how did you manage to cook the ecu?

Hey paul, I just went for a drive and did a full ign adjustment out of boost. Do you know how to use the map tracer?

This was mine, driving normally, only reving to about 3800rpm, and cruising at 60 and 80.

trace.jpg

Edited by The Mafia

well, I've been driving around all day winding ignition timing into the bastard.

Got constant knock of about 8% now out of boost, and f**k me, I've wound almost 14 degrees advance into the first 6 x 20 of the table!!

The knock is still always below 20, so this is ok, right?

Can I just keep advancing the timing until the knock gets to around a constant 10% or 15%?

Is there a point where it won't knock but the timing advance is bad?

But get this, out of boost, the car is so responsive now! I just wants to haul its ass to boost A LOT quicker than it used to. It actually feels awesome to drive out of boost now, so I am not as tempted to hit boost as much anymore.. Oh, and the turbo spools much quicker now. Like 500 rpm earlier............... Does this sound right?

Paul man, you gotta get another Powerfc.. But don't get a standard one - get the Pro version. I am sure you'll love the launch control and the ignitio cut limiter. I reckon its worth the $250 extra. I just wish it had one more thing - Knock control (ie, the link pulls back boost if it detects a certain level of knock or higher)

I am about 75% sure I will be passing on this powerfc and getting a Pro version.

Everyone says "no, go the link or haltek" but I think the powerfc and a datalogit would be just as good, and even better because it comes with the trusty old hand controller. Constant knock monitoring by graph, and you can give it a quick adjustment if you need too.

All of those other ecus as far as I know need a laptop to do anything? Although I do know the link has its own hand controller... But I have seen it.. Its crap.

Edited by The Mafia

whens boost come on for you ??

its about 2200rpm for me with the std turbo

well, I've been driving around all day winding ignition timing into the bastard.

Got constant knock of about 8% now out of boost, and f**k me, I've wound almost 14 degrees advance into the first 6 x 20 of the table!!

The knock is still always below 20, so this is ok, right?

Can I just keep advancing the timing until the knock gets to around a constant 10% or 15%?

Is there a point where it won't knock but the timing advance is bad?

But get this, out of boost, the car is so responsive now! I just wants to haul its ass to boost A LOT quicker than it used to. It actually feels awesome to drive out of boost now, so I am not as tempted to hit boost as much anymore.. Oh, and the turbo spools much quicker now. Like 500 rpm earlier...............  Does this sound right?

Paul man, you gotta get another Powerfc.. But don't get a standard one - get the Pro version. I am sure you'll love the launch control and the ignitio cut limiter. I reckon its worth the $250 extra. I just wish it had one more thing - Knock control (ie, the link pulls back boost if it detects a certain level of knock or higher)

I am about 75% sure I will be passing on this powerfc and getting a Pro version.

IMO, Its not a good idea to wind up the timing too far on the low load points beyond what you've started with. Your engine could be lightly pinging, but the amplitude may not enough to trigger the sensor to pick it up cos of the overall light load. But this light pinging would be occuring all the time which would cause long term damage..

is there anyway to detect it besides the knock sensor ??

like a more acurate way ?

IMO, Its not a good idea to wind up the timing too far on the low load points beyond what you've started with. Your engine could be lightly pinging, but the amplitude may not enough to trigger the sensor to pick it up cos of the overall light load. But this light pinging would be occuring all the time which would cause long term damage..

whens boost come on for you ??

its about 2200rpm for me with the std turbo

well, I dunno for the standard turbo cause I didn't tune it properly like this before I took the stocko turbo off and put a 550hp garrett on.

I really wish I could go back and spend another 2 months on the standard turbo and make all these adjustments. I could have made it a very dangerous car...

But I was at full boost at about 3000rpm.. started spooling at about 2200rpm like yours.

Wanker tuners only tuned it to WOT, and thats it. Charged me $500 to do it too. f**ken rip off tossers. I've got knowlege now. I'll have them by the nuts when they are tuning my car again, making sure they don't rip me off, the fcukers.

IMO, Its not a good idea to wind up the timing too far on the low load points beyond what you've started with. Your engine could be lightly pinging, but the amplitude may not enough to trigger the sensor to pick it up cos of the overall light load. But this light pinging would be occuring all the time which would cause long term damage..

So how do you know when you are hitting too much?

Its hard to say... maybe those head phone things they use? Anyone got any ideas? SK ? lol

Edited by The Mafia

i was booked in for a 'full' tune for $500, but my tuner was having issues with access to the dyno.. he actualy let me hang around and watch him tune the car :)

In the end he only got like an hours dyno time so he just tuned it for WOT.

He only charged me $200 though.. :wub:

But yeah since changing the timing the car goes evan better aswell :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...