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airflow correction just bends the signal coming from the airflow meter to the ecu. so it affects both injectors and ign timing.

That's pretty much how I interpreted the function of that setting, hence the question.

I've removed the AFM correction factor(s) and decided to bump timing up from N4L3 : N9L10 +3deg from L3-L8, +2deg L8-L10. Got that map area through ghost tracing off boost run.

Short 15km run home again, difficult to tell driveability improvement, but max knock level 18. 36% inj duty, @3800 mV on the AFM.

I think your approach is ok Paul, just exercise a bit of caution by making sure your A/F is safe.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1

lately i have been using the master timing correction up to 5 degrees and it knocks no more than usual (nothing, always under 15) have noticed only a very slight increase in response and coming onto boost but does not feel any quicker. I will get it retuned soon so just having a fiddle atm.

I am not sure whether to try more as 4-5 degrees seems a lot. I have a feeling my timing has been retarded at the CAS, and the pfc untuned hence the richness and no power.

Edited by siksII

i've changed mine +5 in the first 10x10..

It definetly improved response at slower speeds. feels great. The last week or so i've had it an extra +2... cant seem to notice a differance with that.. except the knock is slightly higher.. (in the 20's) so i'll probs change it back to 5..

siks your pfc isnt realy tuned at all though yeah ?

i had mine moved up 8deg in total and then tried +5 deg in test mode

and it ran even better and not much knocking, lots of heavy load but on light load not much, under 20. but i fried my ecu so no more testing for me

i've changed mine +5 in the first 10x10..

It definetly improved response at slower speeds. feels great. The last week or so i've had it an extra +2... cant seem to notice a differance with that.. except the knock is slightly higher.. (in the 20's) so i'll probs change it back to 5..

siks your pfc isnt realy tuned at all though yeah ?

The deal with mine is i got the car with the powerfc in it, the previous owner had it tuned(i have the reciept for it) but i think the tuner screwed him over and instead of tuning it just backed off the base timing with the CAS.

Recently i took it to a tuning shop and the tuner said it looks like the base map so its probably the case. Also i have ran the car a few times and the MPH and times are not much better than a stock car.

So i dont know 100% if it has been tuned at all or partially, but i do know i will get it retuned as soon as i can afford to get it going like it should!!! It should be a shitload faster, most cars with same mods run around 105-106mph where i only run 99.

paul, sorry to hear about your powerfc, hopefully its a simple fix.

yeah me too, oh welll life goes on. ill work it out

ive moved my base ign map up heaps and its been great

the off boost respones when cold is soooo nce

it drove like a dream and even when on boost was solid as

i think the biggest problem i had was when on a nice smooth ign area it was really advanced and as soon as i floored it it would drop to an unoptimized area and hit some basic timing and almost feel flat, i had plans to sort that area out with datalogit but cooked the ecu tonight, so fiddlesticks!!!

well only wierd thing i found when using the ajdustement on the whole map is that as far as i can tell it affects the idle as well, so the idle is going a bit funny sometimes with the extra timing.

yeah me too, oh welll life goes on. ill work it out

ive moved my base ign map up heaps and its been great

the off boost respones when cold is soooo nce

it drove like a dream and even when on boost was solid as

i think the biggest problem i had was when on a nice smooth ign area it was really advanced and as soon as i floored it  it would drop to an unoptimized area and hit some basic timing and almost feel flat, i had plans to sort that area out with datalogit but cooked the ecu tonight, so fiddlesticks!!!

how did you manage to cook the ecu?

Hey paul, I just went for a drive and did a full ign adjustment out of boost. Do you know how to use the map tracer?

This was mine, driving normally, only reving to about 3800rpm, and cruising at 60 and 80.

trace.jpg

Edited by The Mafia

well, I've been driving around all day winding ignition timing into the bastard.

Got constant knock of about 8% now out of boost, and f**k me, I've wound almost 14 degrees advance into the first 6 x 20 of the table!!

The knock is still always below 20, so this is ok, right?

Can I just keep advancing the timing until the knock gets to around a constant 10% or 15%?

Is there a point where it won't knock but the timing advance is bad?

But get this, out of boost, the car is so responsive now! I just wants to haul its ass to boost A LOT quicker than it used to. It actually feels awesome to drive out of boost now, so I am not as tempted to hit boost as much anymore.. Oh, and the turbo spools much quicker now. Like 500 rpm earlier............... Does this sound right?

Paul man, you gotta get another Powerfc.. But don't get a standard one - get the Pro version. I am sure you'll love the launch control and the ignitio cut limiter. I reckon its worth the $250 extra. I just wish it had one more thing - Knock control (ie, the link pulls back boost if it detects a certain level of knock or higher)

I am about 75% sure I will be passing on this powerfc and getting a Pro version.

Everyone says "no, go the link or haltek" but I think the powerfc and a datalogit would be just as good, and even better because it comes with the trusty old hand controller. Constant knock monitoring by graph, and you can give it a quick adjustment if you need too.

All of those other ecus as far as I know need a laptop to do anything? Although I do know the link has its own hand controller... But I have seen it.. Its crap.

Edited by The Mafia

whens boost come on for you ??

its about 2200rpm for me with the std turbo

well, I've been driving around all day winding ignition timing into the bastard.

Got constant knock of about 8% now out of boost, and f**k me, I've wound almost 14 degrees advance into the first 6 x 20 of the table!!

The knock is still always below 20, so this is ok, right?

Can I just keep advancing the timing until the knock gets to around a constant 10% or 15%?

Is there a point where it won't knock but the timing advance is bad?

But get this, out of boost, the car is so responsive now! I just wants to haul its ass to boost A LOT quicker than it used to. It actually feels awesome to drive out of boost now, so I am not as tempted to hit boost as much anymore.. Oh, and the turbo spools much quicker now. Like 500 rpm earlier...............  Does this sound right?

Paul man, you gotta get another Powerfc.. But don't get a standard one - get the Pro version. I am sure you'll love the launch control and the ignitio cut limiter. I reckon its worth the $250 extra. I just wish it had one more thing - Knock control (ie, the link pulls back boost if it detects a certain level of knock or higher)

I am about 75% sure I will be passing on this powerfc and getting a Pro version.

IMO, Its not a good idea to wind up the timing too far on the low load points beyond what you've started with. Your engine could be lightly pinging, but the amplitude may not enough to trigger the sensor to pick it up cos of the overall light load. But this light pinging would be occuring all the time which would cause long term damage..

is there anyway to detect it besides the knock sensor ??

like a more acurate way ?

IMO, Its not a good idea to wind up the timing too far on the low load points beyond what you've started with. Your engine could be lightly pinging, but the amplitude may not enough to trigger the sensor to pick it up cos of the overall light load. But this light pinging would be occuring all the time which would cause long term damage..

whens boost come on for you ??

its about 2200rpm for me with the std turbo

well, I dunno for the standard turbo cause I didn't tune it properly like this before I took the stocko turbo off and put a 550hp garrett on.

I really wish I could go back and spend another 2 months on the standard turbo and make all these adjustments. I could have made it a very dangerous car...

But I was at full boost at about 3000rpm.. started spooling at about 2200rpm like yours.

Wanker tuners only tuned it to WOT, and thats it. Charged me $500 to do it too. f**ken rip off tossers. I've got knowlege now. I'll have them by the nuts when they are tuning my car again, making sure they don't rip me off, the fcukers.

IMO, Its not a good idea to wind up the timing too far on the low load points beyond what you've started with. Your engine could be lightly pinging, but the amplitude may not enough to trigger the sensor to pick it up cos of the overall light load. But this light pinging would be occuring all the time which would cause long term damage..

So how do you know when you are hitting too much?

Its hard to say... maybe those head phone things they use? Anyone got any ideas? SK ? lol

Edited by The Mafia

i was booked in for a 'full' tune for $500, but my tuner was having issues with access to the dyno.. he actualy let me hang around and watch him tune the car :)

In the end he only got like an hours dyno time so he just tuned it for WOT.

He only charged me $200 though.. :wub:

But yeah since changing the timing the car goes evan better aswell :)

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