PowerFC: Some DIY tuning comments please

[MattSR]

Hi paul,

One of the reasons that OEM manufacturers went to closed loop systems is because catalytic convertors work best at 14.7:1 for emissions.

If all you are interested in is economy (and you dont mind killing flipper lol) turn closed loop off and target the AFR's to 15:1. Due to the increased combustion temps, NOx emissions will go up as opposed to 14.7:1

Cheers,

Matt

[paulr33]

groovey, thanks that was the feedback i was after

will see how this tank comes out

[The Mafia]

well, I've turned off o2 feedback, and I'm already seeing much better fuel economy. Will let you all know how it goes.

Paul, as far as I can see, it looks like you can adjust what the o2 feedback sets the afr to.

Goto settings 1 tab, bottom right hand corner.

[paulr33]

130k's to 1/4 of a tank so far

[paulr33]

after a long club event on the weekend i have the following figures;

610k's so far from 52 litres + 24litres

There is about 1/4 left of that fuel and I expect to hit around 650-680k's.

Which should bring me to around 8.5L to 100k's

I would have easily cracked 500k's off a single tank but I put in another 24 litres in fear of running empty between towns. Will post when I'm empty

[mokompri]

wow thats a big difference in economy when not running an o2 sensor !

makes sense though i guess, since its allowing you to run leaner then stoich mixtures for cruising

great thread by the way, ive been reading it all very keenly, alot of good info keep it up

[Robo's]

after a long club event on the weekend i have the following figures;

610k's so far from 52 litres + 24litres

There is about 1/4 left of that fuel and I expect to hit around 650-680k's.

Which should bring me to around 8.5L to 100k's

I would have easily cracked 500k's off a single tank but I put in another 24 litres in fear of running empty between towns. Will post when I'm empty

Paul

How did you come up with 8.5/100ks?

[paulr33]

haha sorry i got it completey wrong, my bad

ok i've ran out the tank and here are the figures

total fuel; 76 litres

total distance; 704kms (fuel light not on yet)

76 / 704 * 100 = 10.75

so on a full tank i can get

52 * 10.75 = 561's KMs

last time we did the great ocean road test run we got 540's to a full tank so the figures are spot on hooray for kick ass fuel economy. mind youve ive suffered an exhaust gasket failure so will have to wait 2 weeks before anything else is done.

[DFAULT]

Hey

just wondering if someone can make a map for my r32 gtst or have one already

it has an emanage(injector/ignition harness)

i know this may be stupid, you guys will probably tell me to take it to the shops to tune n stuff

but nah i wanna learn my self because my friend has a dyno which i can use anytime

Mods:

FMIC (hybrid copy 600x300x75)

hks pod

Turbo back exhaust (spilt dump)

r33 turbo (14 psi)

it would be very helpful

thanks very much for your time

go easy on me

Cheers

Excel Blank page of tuning

Emanage Blank tuning page

Edited April 6, 2006 by DFAULT

[paulr33]

Hi All,

Just some further questions on self tuning. I've noticed other cars I've driven when cold heat up fairly quickly, within 2 minutes most of them.

Other cars;

2004 Honda Accord Auto (quickest of them all, like deadset 1.5minutes and its at half on the guage)

1991 Toyota Corolla Manual

1994 Ford EA (i think) Wagon Auto

So certainlty not sports cars or high performances cars by any means.

My skyline takes about spot on 5 minutes, sometimes a tiny bit more to reach past 70deg. Often I never go beyond 75deg water temp. I never EVER see 80deg water temp. This is also reflected on the stock gauge, it takes a long time to get to operating temp near ~70deg water temp.

I have altered my timing map for the 8x8 area significantly (some parts increase of 12deg IGN timing) but I have not altered my water temp correction to suit. So what I think is happening is that its runing more advanced timing than OEM apexi defaults when its cold as I've upped the map area. So when I did this I should have altered the water temp correction to suit more retard timing to heat up the engine quicker and safer.

Is my thinking correct? Alter the water temp IGN correction for the colder sections so it retards it more (as ive advanced the timing more there) until desired operating temp is reached.

Does anyone else have any problems reaching ~80deg operating temp on R33 PFC?

Any suggestions on what correction factors I should dial in for water temp correction? My settings are attached...

As you can see below from my water temp table I made the 1.00 correction for 50deg as my car would never get to 80deg, so I would always have retarded timing just slightly. So I dialed in 1.00 at 50deg as a comprimise

[The Mafia]

you make good points.

I will add - my car takes 7 - 10 minutes to get to full operating temperature. (75 degrees)

BUT I don't wait for the water temp to get that high. I wait for the oil pressure to drop, as the oil being hot and not as thick is more important than water being hot.

[paulr33]

yeah i too generally just check for good varying oil pressure.

anyone else suggest if its OK to change the water temp correction to lower values for under 50deg temps to retard the timing more.

the idea being retarded timing heats up the engine more?

is that correct?

[paulr33]

We had a dyno day today and we did an attempt at adjusting the VCT kickoff point. There was no noticable difference and nothing was gained. The power chart didn't vary at all. I expected the run that we did with VCT off at 1900 to be a LOT different but it was the same.

I drove on the street with VCT kicking off at 1900 and it felt a bit more boggier and lacked a bit of top end beef. So nothing gained but still fun to try. I've left it in the default kickoff of 4700rpm.

Has anyone else seem similar results? I recall NIB saying that he has done it a few times and each time got a good result, perhaps I did it wrong?

1st run - default settings (kick off at 4700rpm)

2nd run - vct kick off set to 1900rpm

overlayed the two charts and pretty much identical, no noticable change

[paulr33]

Attached is latest tune for anyone interested, we threw in 2 more degrees today.

It's in datalogit format, just rename to .dat

Also attached is one of the dyno runs. It's in datalogit format but can just be sucked into Excel

paulr33_20060513.txt

paulr33_20060513_dynorun.txt

[paulr33]

I had a look at the inj map last night and just past 5700 load points you can see the afr's plummet to near 11 on the graph and on the inj map it richend up to near 1.45 which is almost near max on the map. So I looked at what inj values we used at 4800 to 5500 and copied those across, which were 1.360 which got me spot on 12's. So it should be an even 12 now and shouldnt drop off

[JimX]

Paul, how well do you think the RB25 timing settings translate into an RB26? Could I use your tune as a basic guide to see where I can bump up the timings a fair bit (like I did on my GTS) or are they so different that I may as well not bother?

Just talking about the light load off-boost timings here, I will leave the power tune up to the dyno and the professionals.

[paulr33]

probably doesn't sound very safe. have you got access to datalogit?

if not just use temp IGN adjust, crank in +8 and see how it knocks under 3 grand. if its minimal then dial in +8 onto the 6x6 area to cover the majority of the cells or even +8. this is basically all i have done. the ideal seems to be around +12 off the stock maps under 3 grand

[Dale FZ1]

I take it the COMPARE inj map is values against the stock PFC default?

[Cubes]

My skyline takes about spot on 5 minutes, sometimes a tiny bit more to reach past 70deg. Often I never go beyond 75deg water temp. I never EVER see 80deg water temp. This is also reflected on the stock gauge, it takes a long time to get to operating temp near ~70deg water temp.

Mine gets to operating temp within a couple of minutes, or to be exact if I simply start and drive off slowly 2kms.

Sit it idling and it takes for ever.

With regards to the rb26 ign map, the first 6 load cells (verticle) are the same as the rb25's first 8 load cells. The rb26 has less resolution due to a higher total airflow hence power capability.

At light cruise the rb26 ign. map appears to run stuff all ignition, unsure why this is, however at light usual traffic accelerating loads the rb26 map is pretty much the same, at higher rpms over 3000rpm the rb26 map runs a little more ignition.

[Cubes]

I take it the COMPARE inj map is values against the stock PFC default?

Compare simply compares the map you select against the map that is currently loaded.