Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant see why when on highway cruising the engine should be on boost. It should still be in vacuum when maintaining steady highway speeds for sure...

Btw I still reckon you can stay with 14.7 AFR for boost upto approx 5-7 psi underneath 3500 rpm. I know that my standard ECU (S14 SR20DET) does this, with no qualms.

At cruise, it isnt on boost at all, i think he is meaning accelerating to 100 but then again i can accelerate there with no boost.

Sorry, I worded it badly. I didn't mean on open constant throttle on flat road meant you were in positive manifold pressure, I meant at normal cruising, you will go up and down hills unless it's the nullabor or something. Up a hill the turbo can start to come on boost which will make the fuel economy suffer more than it otherwise would. I didn't mean to say that it's always on positive boost constantly at 100kph+. Also I'm sure it doesn't need to be in positive pressure to be using more fuel, just slightly less vacuum than NA would have a similar effect. Even the extra bit of back pressure keeping the turbine spinning will have a slight cost on the engine efficiency. Nothing is free.

My understanding is that ultimately the airflow decides final fuel economy, as the signal given to the ECU predicates what load cell to use, which in turn is translated to the INJ map so this decides how much fuel to dial in. It shouldn't have anything to do with boost or if the turbo is spinning or not. I can cruise along at 2500rpm with my foot hardly on the pedal and airflow meter may say 2.4v if I keep my foot the same and being to drive up an incline engine load will increase (despite thorttle sensor the same) and as a result, more boost may be built up, this will also move the map cell as airflow meter load increases.

Boost driving fuel economy would only be an effect on a map sensor ECU

Airflow driving fuel economy will be the driver on an airflow ECU

if that makes sense? (sorta)

I cant see why when on highway cruising the engine should be on boost. It should still be in vacuum when maintaining steady highway speeds for sure...

Btw I still reckon you can stay with 14.7 AFR for boost upto approx 5-7 psi underneath 3500 rpm. I know that my standard ECU (S14 SR20DET) does this, with no qualms.

Thats correct they do stay closed loop until about 7psi of boost pressure however the standard ECU has a time at load until additional enrichment function as well. This way if you just coming onto boost for a bit and then back off it will stay closed loop to save you feul however if you are on boost for too long cylinder temp sky rocket. This is why they introduced this function.

And paulr33 I still very sceptical on your aiming for 15:1 AFR as the PFC doesn't have a lean cruise function. Do you turn the 02 sensor feedback on once your finished?

hey guys,

just installed my pfc and my engine check light is on. what the go with that? any help would be great.

The FAQ (in my signature) clearly outlines why the engine light would be on for a new install

yes i turned 02 feedback back on. why?

what should i have done instead?

i will be hopfully getting it again soon to recheck them

currently going to struggle to make 300k's to a full tank of city driving

GO FIGURE!!!!

yes i turned 02 feedback back on. why?

what should i have done instead?

i will be hopfully getting it again soon to recheck them

currently going to struggle to make 300k's to a full tank of city driving

GO FIGURE!!!!

If your mixtures are around 15:1 AFR open loop and you command a closed loop AFR of 14.7:1 then the O2 sensor slowly trims more and more fuel until it reaches 14.7:1. The further from stoic you open loop mixtures are the more it has to trim and you using more fuel this is why the call it feedback as it waits for a conditon and then trims.

What you want to do is tune as close to stoic as you can, this way the O2 sensor will have very little trimming to do.

Alternatively you could just turn off closed loop and tune whatever you want.

Is there a map or chart / guide i can look at to suggest some AFR's to aim for when wideband tuning. i have an AFX guide which i had a look at it and also some comments on the forum

idle load 16 afr is ok

light load 15 afr is ok (upto say around 70km/h - 80km/h)

around 100km/h aim for 14.7

i wont be touching any full load or WOT

merely light load / cruise

1) turn off 02 feedback

2) plod around and check out the 02 wideband values

3) fix speed at 30kmh light load then dial it to be around 16.5afr

4) fix speed at 50kmh light load then dial it to be aroudn 16.0afr

5) fix speed at 80kmh light load then dial it to be around 15.5afr

6) fix speed at 100kmh light load then dial it to be around 14.7afr

the reasons for my afr aiming are engine safety based on heat, keep the afr lower near 100kmh to keep the exhaust heat down and down kill the valves (thanks gary for that tip)

any comments / ideas / feedback / criticism welcome as im doing it tonight

If your mixtures are around 15:1 AFR open loop and you command a closed loop AFR of 14.7:1 then the O2 sensor slowly trims more and more fuel until it reaches 14.7:1.  The further from stoic you open loop mixtures are the more it has to trim and you using more fuel this is why the call it feedback as it waits for a conditon and then trims.

What you want to do is tune as close to stoic as you can, this way the O2 sensor will have very little trimming to do.

Alternatively you could just turn off closed loop and tune whatever you want.

so is the idea to tune as close to 14.7 as possible and have 02 feedback on and just deal with whatever economy i get or to tune the light load / cruise areas to say near 15.5 ish (as listed above) and then have 02 feedback off permentantly as ive dialed in my own afr's?

so is the idea to tune as close to 14.7 as possible and have 02 feedback on and just deal with whatever economy i get or to tune the light load / cruise areas to say near 15.5 ish (as listed above) and then have 02 feedback off permentantly as ive dialed in my own afr's?

If your happy enough with your mixtures and dont worry about accelleration enrichments then I would leave the O2 sensor off otherwise enable the O2 feedback and tune as close to stoich as possible.

I would say once your happy with your timing numbers dial in the say 13.5:1 at zero boost and hold it at constant load. If after a sustained load at this boost it introduces a higher knock figure on the PFC then enlean the mixtures futher until the knock numbers start to increase. This is the point at which the chamber temps are sufficiently high to cause detonation so you richen it up just a little to reduce cylinder temps.

For a standard cast bottom end RB25 I would aim for around 13.2:1 at zero boost, 12.5:1 at around 6psi, 12:1 at 10psi going off to 11.8 high in the rev range.

completed the wideband tuning again. i had closed loop off and you could see the difference, even if you dialed in a lean INJ cell value after a few seconds closed loop would run and richen it back up to 14.7 which is kinda not helpful for light load / cruise areas. so ive tuned it with 02 feedback off and left it completely off as i've checked most of the load areas and im happy with the afr's coming out. i had to make a fair few adustments and i ended up loading the apexi rb25 default map for the first 8x8 cells and then leaning it out from there using datalogit, the hand controller was taking far too long. once i had adjusted the cells in 8x8 area the afrs were happy for light cruise on streets and also on the freeway

i must have done the previous tune with 02 feedback still on because as soon as 02 feedback was off the afrs coming out were too lean so my bad. but its off for good now and will see how it runs with it being off for a week.

ok so is what i have done an ok'ish principal ?

tuned it fairly lean on cruise / light load and as the load cells increased richen it up in steps and kept the rest of the cells how they were (max power tuned). this does mean some parts of the crusing along are at afr's of 16 or 15.5 in some parts, siuch as the first row of the rev points upto 2400rpm.

jack all load so why rich? then as we increase load up the afr and i aimed for 14.7 for 100km/h cruising. done all that with keep 02 feedback off completely

will run out this full tank with 02 feedback off and see how it goes

then will try it with 02 feedback back on. but 1 question i dont understand

whats the point of tuning say the first 8x8 cells and you dial in whatever AFR you feel is cool or right and then have 02 feedback turned on again when you are done and as soon as the throttle is steady closed loop comes along and dials the AFR back down to 14.7 so even if you decided AFR 15.5 is fine, as soon as you cruise for a few seconds it begins richening up to 14.7 again.

so is the ideal economy land

1) lean out the say 8x8 area with whatever AFR you feel is right / safe and have 02 feedback off

or

2) dial in 14.7afr in all of the 8x8 areas and have 02 feedback on and always run with 14.7 everywhere, at least in that 8x8 area regardless of rpm and/or load.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...