Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need the following

Rio for front bar for R33

R33 GTR FRONT GUARDS <------ NEEEEEEEED

Preffer SE Queensland but will pay for freight.

Updated 1 October

Still required :(

Edited by Slide
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79800-slide-needs-for-r33-lots-required/
Share on other sites

I have the parts but in melbourne

Air conditioning radiator (condensor): 260

Radiator:265

Oil pump (me thinks)(Power steering pump): 175

Air conditioning compressor: 180

Control arm for steering (left hand side): I have complete steering rack 220

Radiator support bars from chassis to bottom radiator support (both): 80 each

Front of chassis inc top radiator support bar and front left 1/4 chassis: I have a complete half cut shell for 450

Air conditioning preasure unit with pipes: I think you mean bottle If you buy a few thing i'll throw it in the deal

And oil line pipes to go from the air conditioning compressor to the oil compressor

(pretty much the whole aircon engine setup)

Radiator Fan output shaft from water pump: I think you mean clutch fan 100

Skyline33 could you please get a rough idea on freight costs for the radiator and aircon radiator delivered to Banora Point 2486. (NSW)

What condition are they in?

People please email pics to [email protected] (please keep dialup safe)

Radiator $200

A/c condensor $180

p/s pump $140

a/c compressor $150

rad support bars $100 pr

33 1/2 cut shell $300

air con lines and fan FREE

can orginise freight cheap

Woot cheaper

How much to get the half cut shell to Banora Point 2486 Dsturbd?

It looks like i will need the steering rack aswell now so how much people?

And also the mount on the side of the block that has the ac comp and power steering pump bolted on it.

Karma is just a word

Bang.

My tie rod/steering arm was slowly unscrewing its self by stripping the thread eventually broke off leaving me with no steering on the left side leaving me with a big splinter in the front of the car from a 3 tonne log.

Damage is minimal. the only structual damage is the radiator support and steering rack bent.

Shoot the person that sent the msg for me hows that sound :)

Hey aaron try a importer see if you can get the front cut after the motor has been pulled out going to be a lot easier & quicker/cheaper then trying to get parts from here there & everywere, just a idea bud

good luck with it

Yeah ive been speaking with Just Jap/RMA/Rollin down here but atm they are short on them and wont let me cut the front off.

Its looking more economical to leave it to a panel beater to play with magic.

Be interesting to hear how much it will cost me for the half cuts from SYD MELB OR BRIS

Any info appreciated.

Thanks guys as soon as the chassis sorted i will be buying the parts.

haha she gets upgrades now for not being a write off

will be contacting your suggested today cheers OZ

getting full 400r bodykit and fibreglass bonnet.

lucky i have all the new part contacts :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...