Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. (this may be a crappy thead i know) Just thought id post this see if i get any reply's from the best forum on earth. So got this summery sheet from the workshop. Could you plz tell me your opinions on the list.....eg what should be fixed asap etc what you think of compression what items might mean what)

thanx (will leave some of the dumber items off eg.window washers not working correctly etc)

No. #3 cylander burning oil - s plug white

Rocker Gasket leaking

centre tailshaft universal has movement

top of g/box wet with oil

timing belts last done?

coolant/brake fluids nedd replacing

top radiator rubber mount broken

RH top of suspension arm knocking

left rear suspensioin arm was loose

high hydrocarbons on idle - camshafts?

compresion 1-140 2-150 3-125 4-120 5-155 6-120

umm yeh couple of others not worth listing etc

any input appriciated (yes im going 2 get leakdown test done but broke atm) (also how much u reckon to get valves reseated?) (along with fixing all on list)

nothing major there bit concerned bout comp tho but yeh just thought id put it out there

btw heading 2 japan soon land of the gtr....cant wait!

peace all

umm yeh (camshafts apparantly) pods..highflow turbos apparantly...full exhaust umm.. hks intake bits thats roughly it as far as (engine) goes

(car seems to be running really well atm tho....was running there for a while shite but changed plugs and taped coils thing and seems to of made a good difference

running standard boost and has about 50,000 on clock

;) plz dont say rebuild time....i just shat myself

(apart from compression what tell tale signs are there that a rebuild is needed????)

others?

surely its not rebuild time just need valves reseated?

Those compression results are far from great, id steer clear of anything with more than 10psi variance across cylinders. Get a leakdown test and see if it tells you whats breaking inside the engine. The burning oil on cylinder #3 isnt a good sign either.

Cam cover gaskets are normal, most GTR's I see have a dribble of oil from the rear of the cam covers. All the other things just sound like normal wear and tear. As for the high hydrocarbons, we started my car with no cat on and Tomei 260 in/ex cams, and it sent the machine off the scale at idle. EPA might hate you for it though...

Normal wear and tear doesnt sound too bad, they are old cars but engine wise id be putting money aside as I wouldnt be suprised if the engine let go some time soon.

if its all so bad then why the hell didnt the workshop tell me to stear clear instead of saying yeah its good car with minor faults...so i bought it!! dont get me wrong i love my car but if the engine goes in the near future then im gonna be P I S S E D how do i payout on workshop if it does die?

It is very easy to produce a bad result with a compression test not done quite right. Have a leak-down test done before getting too excited.

No. #3 cylander burning oil - s plug white

This doesn't make sense. Burning oil = black oily plug.

Rocker Gasket leaking

No biggy...gaskets relax with age...re-tighten screws

centre tailshaft universal has movement

R32GTR tailshaft does not have a centre universal joint....it has a CV joint and some movement is normal because it is rubber mounted.

top of g/box wet with oil

Almost certainly the shift lever boot has perished. Simple job to check and replace. Boot costs about $30.

timing belts last done?

If you don't have any history on the car, timing belt should be one of the first things on the list....recommend doing the water pump at the same time as well as the idler/tensioner bearings.

coolant/brake fluids nedd replacing

Again, unless you know the cars history, change all fluids (I would do them regardless)

Any loose or suspect suspension parts should be repaired/retightened/replaced as required. Close inspection of brake condition is a also a must.

Not good dude....

If the car had 50 on the clock and has these problems didnt you think this was strange.

The compression tests do not look good at all. The suspension and rubber dammage tells me straight away that this car has done more the 50k.... With out even looking at it....

Drive it like it is now..... Sell it and buy another one..... Next time get a forum member to go with you to check it over... Im sure there are a few in TAS who would help ya out...

All these old RB26s are timebomb (I'd suggest you're naive if you don't agree)

I'd look at a leak down before you decide its rooted

Steve's reply is fairly comprehensive

PS welcome to the world of the GTR time to introduce it to your wallet :rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...