Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again guys, i know ive asked alot of questions lately but one more has come up. When i first took off the cam belt tensioner it was quite dry/free spinning to rotate. Now that i put sum lube in it, it seems to have gotten smoother and quieter when i spin it. Im curious how do i know if i should replace it? And do i have to replace the spring? Or how do i tell if i need to?

Many thanks,

Deren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81071-cam-belt-tensioner-spring/
Share on other sites

nissan charge a sh*t load for the tensioner and idler. They wanted about $120 for tensioner and 250 for the ideler I think.

Search around for part numbers. I posted a thred in here with the part numbers and where to get them cheap. Then checkif RB26 has same part number..

good luck

Hi Deren,

When I did mine I replaced tensioner and idler bearings, water pump and the timing belt at the same time. I also replaced the Idler bolt and the tensioner stud as they sometimes break.

I got the bearings from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater, the pump from Bursons (it is the same as VL commodore - some say that there is a difference but only the RB20 is different from the VL commodore) and the belt from Nissan in Oakley. Shop around a few Nissan dealers for the belt as I was quoted up to $120 but eventually got it for $80.

Total cost for the whole job was about $350.

Cheers.

Just posting these details as the search on this forum just sux now. Can't go past a couple of months.

BSC Motion Technology

3/ 1968 Hume Hwy Campbellfield VIC 3061

ph: (03) 9357 7515

Idler: NSK 56TB 2801 B01

Tensioner: NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806

Now I spoke to Steve when I got mine there and they were only about $120 for the pair. They apparently had hundreds in the warehouse.

is it hard to replace the idler stud? How do you get it out?

I didnt bother with mine nor the tensioner bolt. Went to nissan and they said it would be a hassle to get it. Also showed the bolt to the service team there and they said they would never replace a bolt like that.

The bolt is only going to snap if the bearing siezes etc which puts all the load on the bolt...something eventually has to give..new or old stud I think would be the same issue!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...