Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I am currently looking at upgrading my turbo to a HKS GT-RS or GT2530 KAI and I would like some advice on the upgrade. I own a manual R33 Skyline sedan and basically I am after an internal gated turbo as I want the car to be perfectly streetable and insurable but I want it to be fast at the same time. Other things I will upgrade with the turbo are AFM, ECU (Power FC), clutch, injectors, fuel pump etc. The car already has a cat-back exhaust and HKS FMIC so hopefully I don't need to replace those things. I would like to know which turbo would best be suited to my application and the advantages and disadvantages of each. Any other information is greatly appreciated and please forgive my ignorance on this subject :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81088-hks-gt-rs-turbo-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites

should be plently of info in the rb25 dyno upgrade thread, should be stickied at the top or in the forced induction reference thread. change the stock dump as it will be a restriction. the gt-rs will flow more and should get you near 260/270rwkw based on some of the graphs from the rb25 dyno upgrade thread. the 2530 kai havent seen any graphs or runs from anyone running these yet, probably silighty more than 2530 but less than 2535 at a guess?

check out the rb25 dyno upgrade thread. the mods youve listed should do you fine. maybe consider a set of cams, should do wonders when you have a bigger a/r turbo

Check the HKS website for details

HKS achieved 290kw and 465Nm at the engine with GT-RS on a RB25 stagea

,268kw and 450Nm with GT2530-KAI in the same set up.

Both made peak power at about 6500 rpm and peak torque at 5000 rpm.

As the GT-RS kit only costs two or three hundred dollars more, this may be the best way too go.

More power with a slight loss of response but will save you from wondering "what if?" which could happen if you went with the smaller turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...