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I assume by sports filter you mean a 'pod filter'? If thats the case and you have no heat sheild it will cause power to drop off due to sucking in hot engine bay air. The BOV isn't doing you any favours with a standard ecu either.

The good news is there a few things you can do to up the power without breaking the bank. That should see you up another 40rwkw+. There is a sticky thread in the forced induction section on the most commonly asked questions to help you out.

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yep pod filter...

i got front mount waiting to be fitted, wolf 3d, and im thinking of buying hks gt-rs so getting more power shouldnt be a problem, the only thing is if the engine is healthy, and power curvr is perfect, linear no dips...i think west racing has lowest reading dyno in western australia as year ago they had some tests on all dynos and they got 310hp on some commodore and Mayeree dyno had 390hp, sst 370hp etc ill try to find the article

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there's the article

hey stuck a commodore ute on 9 different dyno's around perth.

the test was actually on a gold sedan with Kosteckis new head and cam package that will be distributed through Crow Cams. the results were as follows:

BRE performance - 305hp

Genie Performance - 364hp

Kwinana Performance - 356hp

T&R Green - 365hp (Shoot-out mode)

Myaree Dyno- 393.6hp

West Racing - 312hp

D&T Performance - 347.5hp

Street Force - 358hp

SST Automotive - 367.7hp (Shoot-out mode)

so my car was at west racing which is second lowest reading dyno out of 9...hmmm i wanna go to other dyno place to test it?

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Aslong as your car is healthy who cares what power it's making:confused: Will a power graph showing 400rwhp make the car any faster? If you make future changes you want to compare it on the same dyno, else you won't know if the change was worthwhile.

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