Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so the GTR owners have a thread like this, so i thought i'd make up one for us ones that drive gts-t's n gt-t's ( older skyline owners R31 n such can post to ).

k so i've spent roughly.... close to 30 thousand on my car, thats a fair bit of money lol, how much have the rest of you spent to date, or plan on spending in the future???

car: '94 R33 Gts-t..

where the money went.....

$14,500 purchase price,

$7,000 smash repair bill

$1,200 Veilside kit....}

$2,500 full re-spray..} in progress

and theres more to come in the future... :D

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

PFC: 750

Tuning: 450

Bodykit: 800 on top of selling my old kit

Cat and forward sections of exhaust: 1000

Front mount: 1100

Stereo: 1300

Alarm: 850

Rims: 1200 on top of selling the rims my car came with

Strut brace: 130

Gauges & rsm: 800

Tinting: 200

Cam gear: 130

Suspension: 550

Upgraded fuel pump Bosch 040: 230

GFB Hybrid BOV : 150

Cold air box: 120

TOTAL: 9760... OOoppss.. LOL... Still more to come :) This is just on modifications. This doesnt include petrol expenses, oil changes etc...

This thread was created just to rub it in for the GTR guys right? :)

GTR thread: 20k, 15k, 7k, 12k,

GTS-t thread: 2k, 2k, 2k  

LOL

lol nah i was just curious to see if alot of gtst owners and such spend alota money on there car as well, although it would suck being a GTR owner and reading this lol.

haha i like the way alot of you say a figure and then add ( so far ) to the end of it lol, i should proly bring it up again in a year or two and then maybe we'd be up to the GTR figures ;).

Wheels - $2500

Susp - $3500

BC - $300

POD - $100

Zorst - $1200

Stereo - $7000

Brakes - $700

Fansy stuff - $1000

Purchase price - $19000

Total - $35300...........DAMN! and i still have sh!t loads to go.. ;) cars are expensive.

Car - $21K

First Batch of mods - $13K (FMIC, Hi Flow turbo, Injectors, ECU, Tune, Front/Dump, cat, etc)

Blown Motor

Second Batch of Mods - Engine Rebuild $20K (included new everything - bulletproof)

New Turbo & manifold - $3K

New ECU $1400

Greddy Plennum - $1.2K

Buddy Club Wheels - $2K

TIEN Suspension - $1.2K

Clutch - $650

New Springs - $450

Oil Cooler, Thermostat, lines - $1K

Bigger FMIC - $1600

Sound System $1K

Semi Slicks - $1100

Terrific waste of money ;)

Purchased mine 5 years ago and it owes me close to 50k including purchase price and labour for installed parts

Same here :P and i am still getting more mods in the next few weeks. Long engine is still std., for now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...