Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have a R32 GTS-T, i am trying to find out what to do next my mods are as follows:

pod

wolf 3D

GT30 ballbearing 650hp

hks fmic

fuel reg

3" exhuast

injectors i think about 500cc not sure

45mm waste gate

h/D clutch excedy

Currently the car is running 16psi and i am yet to do the fuel pump which is getting done soon at the moment i have 210rwkw just wondering after fuel pump what sort of internal work i need to do enable me to turn the boost up and start getting some good figures i want to keep everything that i have. Do i need to open the engine up and say some forged piston and rods? Not sure what needs to be done i have heard that you can just put the RB25 bottom half of the engine to replace the RB20 is that right, and help would be great and what sort of prices am i looking at Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81244-where-do-i-start-with-internals/
Share on other sites

Forget about cracking open the engine if your making 210rwkws. Forged pistons, rods etc wont mean you make more power...

If you want more power id be having a look at why a 650HP turbo is struggling to make 300rwhp. If you serisouly want to make anything near what a 650hp turbo is capable of delivering, then id be starting to look at a bigger RB engine.

But id say you dont need to replace anything to make more power, by the sounds of what you have the thing should be able to happily make 250rwkws at sensible boost levels and std engine internals, something isnt quite right if your making 210rwkws

ok well maybe he ment it might make 650 if i high flowed it not sure not really fused i cant use that much anyway with the standard 2L all my mods didn't cost me anything as he got done by the EPA and had to get rid of it all and get standard gear. He had no money and i hit the jack pot getting his turbo, dump pipe,45mm waste gate, fuel reg, catch can, bigger injectors all i had to add was the wolf 3D and give him all my standard gear i jumped from 108rwkw to 210rwkw with only paying $1900 for parts not bad ha

++++

Greetings All.

Could i be possible the turbo is sick? Shaft play? Damaged compressor/turbine??

Also, Arnt GT-30 Turbos rated at around 550HP...?? (Non ball baring core night not help??)

What are the turbo specs?

Cheers,

--Tonba

++++

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...