Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i was wondering which out of these 3 engines would win overall for easy of power, reliability, price, and also easy and price of keeping one if i were to drop it in a r32 gtst, i love the look of the suckers saw an awesome black one today near my work anyway i was looking to drop most likly the 30 or 26 in because i dont think a 2 liter is enough to spool turbos as well as they should seeing as i own a bloody 4 liter now and have been in 4 litre turbos ahhaha, anyway if i get my r32 gtst i was looking to run just normal rb20 while making a engine (of the above 3) around 250rwkw or enough to run mid 12's but i want a very reliable enigne, also do these drop in or do they need new engine mounts....

Thanks guys

adzi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81336-r32-gtst-with-rb-25-26-or-30/
Share on other sites

Ok that didnt answer my question ahhaah well heres another question more cubic inches means more power/torque weather u guys want to hear that or not (i.e. look at top fuelers) anyways why did nissan make the top of the line only a 2.6 litre and not the 3 litre??? That im stumped about

Ok that didnt answer my question ahhaah well heres another question more cubic inches means more power/torque weather u guys want to hear that or not (i.e. look at top fuelers) anyways why did nissan make the top of the line only a 2.6 litre and not the 3 litre??? That im stumped about

if im not mistaken 2.6L was the capacity limit for a turbo engine in the racing category the GTR was desighned for, hence nissan engineered the rb26 to fit within these rules.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...