Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT o2 Sensor Replacement

satanic

By satanic,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

How many of you guys with bad economy are still running the stock computers?

The stocker responds to any extra boost by immediately enriching the fuel delivery.

Try disconnecting the O2 sensor and see how the economy goes. My GTR33 is better with the sensors disconnected.

If that fails start thinking a digital fuel adjuster or aftermarket management.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
A SAFC should be able to lean things out a bit.

Geoff I would have thought the ECU should have displayed a fault code if you unplug it.

I've got a fully tuned pfc and it still chews the ass end out of the fuel tank.

Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

Fully tuned? for what, biggest power delivery or easy cruising.

Its hard to tune for both I would think. Thats where nissan engineers design a happy medium. But as geoff said, You boost it up - the computer compenstates by throwing oodles of fuel at its problem....

Cheers

Sumo

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

The standard ECU is most likely to give you the best fuel economy out of any ECU, aftermarket or not as long as all sensors are working correctly and the numbers you are producing are realistic. I have a stock GTR with a chip I tuned at work it puts out 234rwkw at 12 pound and returns figures close to 500km per tank on the highway. In standard trim all nissan computers are extremely rich in the top end, this is most likely to be the cause of the build up on your bumper.

Try to remeber when deciding on who tunes your car that outright power is the easiest place to tune a car. The real furness is the light throttle tranistions, idle(not for nissans) and cruise; pretty much where most cars will drive the majority of their life.

My advice to you satanic would be to just replace the 02 sensor with the generic item.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
A SAFC should be able to lean things out a bit.

Geoff I would have thought the ECU should have displayed a fault code if you unplug it.

No fault code and only 260rwkw on the stock computer with them unplugged.

Used 25L in 35km with them plugged in and less than 10L on the return journey. I drive sensible as well. No fines in over 10 years.

The standard computer is a known pig if the boost is bumped up. It's been covered many times. There are pitfalls with aftermarket but it lies in the tuning and the attention to detail of the tuner.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...