Jump to content
SAU Community

  

94 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

157,305 - rebuilt 3 times already.

But only because it needed it the 1st time, the other 2 were stupid things that happened while It was in the less than capable hands of family members.

^^^

What tha? What did they do? I'd like to know so I avoid letting this happen myself...

First time was at around 90,000kms. After a night of drag-racing around newcastle I woke up in the morning with Zero oil pressure and broken ring-lands. Detonation killed that one.

Second time was at about 100,000k's. My sister was using it for a while. Got a call from her halfway down the freeway from Sydney and asking what the Temp guage meant when it was pointing straight up, Oh and there was a strange bubbling/boiling noise coming from the engine bay. I asked how long it had been like that for, she said the guage was like that for the last hour but the noise was new and made her worried. The Heater core broke shortly after getting it towed and spilled fluid down the passanger footwell. Got the pipes dodged up but it still had a warped head and block.

This rebuild they bored out the cylinders and meant I had to fork out for a new set of forged pistons and HKS copper headgasket :rofl:

Third time was at about 127,000k's and I was living in sydney by then, my brother was using my car for work. He was a Courier and his car was out or rego at the time. On Miller St in North Sydney it just died and he was there for a while trying to start it and roll start it with no luck. After another tow to Powerplay they found the Tensioner for the Timing belt had just sheered and just fallen off making the belt go slack.

Block was ok, Pistons were marked but still useable but the head and valves were shot. Put a new nissan gasket and rebuild kit thru it again just for the sake of it and got all the damage fixed.

When I picked it up from Powerplay I had just got my licence back and I took it home and havent let it out of my clutches since.

Moral? If you loose your lisence for 3 years, put the car into storage or something, up on blocks is perferable. Will cost less in the long than letting people who will just neglect basic maintennance and serviceing.

Sure the Tensioner was just one of those things, but if he hadnt been there trying to keep starting it again for ages the damage wouldnt have been so bad.

Purchased @ 63k kms in Jan2005..... currently has 81k kms now..... so 18,000km  in 6 months.............. usualy only driven on weekends........ thats ****ed hey :$ lol

im the same..... although i do roughly 150-250 a day

guys, just a question...do you actually think the kms done on your car is genuine?? I heard 80% of the kilometres have been tuned back so that they can fetch a higher price in Japan. Any of you have real genuine service log books on your cars?

How long can the RB25DET engine run for? will it blow after 100,000kms? Jordan's car sounds a little scary though...:D

It most definately will not blow after 100,000km unless you mistreat it (mainly by not doing regular servicing).

I reckon our odometer was probably fiddled with somewhere and that is why we got the dealer to do the belts etc, after the odometer was only working intermittently while driving it home.

El Bee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
×
×
  • Create New...