Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hope this helps a few people out there in regards to nice sounding legal and powerful exhaust system .after alot of trial error with mufflers and resonator i have assembled a nice sounding exhaust it comprises of 2 1/4 pipe one 18'' expansion chamber coby muffler fitted where the cat was,as for u guys in oz fitt a shorter resonator 16'' expansion chamber type next in line with cat . run straight pipe 2 1/4 all the way up to the rear of car then either a large body straight through twin tip 2.5'' muffler or a 16'' straight through a 2.5'' core come out at 4'' with a provision for silencer use the silencer, give you enough backpressure to help with scavenge of exhaust gasses and prevents burnt exhaust valves still sound deep at idle and crisp sounding at mid to high revs also run coby extractors make a huge difference slightly in low rev and very noticable in mid to high revs. only adjustment had to do was idle air bleed scew adjustment to give smooth idle due to better flowing exhaust i have found it to have more torque and quicker acceleration .i havent dyno to show figures but works well for me and im very fussy when comes to making cars go well and sound well .also if u use a straight through type muffler comeing out 4 '' make sure u use silencer other wise it is extremely loud

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81513-a-nice-sounding-exhaust-for-na/
Share on other sites

All I got is the standard bore pipe (2" I think) headers and three coby's all about 15" long. The car has made 120rwkw on the dyno with this set up, how ever she only ran 108rwkw the other day :confused:

Anywho, I think the important thing is to avoid using stainless anything on the system as this resonates badly with the N/A's.

Also, a turn-down or dump pipe at the end will keep the bark away too.

I get many comments on how good it sounds :D yay!

How about a 3" straight pipe? it will sound very mean. Probably be about 110 db.

i think 3'' a bit extreme.your dead right it would be very load it would sound like youre exhaust fell off.also you would loose a heap of power down low,only turbos modified could run that size and sound good,the turbo helps push the exhaust gas out,wear as n/a need a certain amount back pressure and smaller pipe size create scavenging to draw exhaust gas out and give good low down throttle responce .

can't have a quiet exhaust which gives good power. Plain and simple.

I'm gettin a 3" turbo back exhaust chucked on an ECCS RB20'd R31 GTS-x, won't be too bad :D

If you want lower pitched sounds then get mild steel, the thickness/density etc absorbs higher frequency sounds better.

ive got 2 1/4 " pipes 1 x 18 " muffler and the cat converter and extractors . sounds deep at idle up to a great screaming noise at peak revs ,( yeah bit hard to describe exhaust sounds . its a bit loud overall , but tolerable

mine used to run a modified 2 1/2" collector off the coby extractors, straight through to a 2 1/2" 16" long cannon no cat... sounded unreal!! though any drive longer then 1/2 an hour resulted in headaches..

i have being told by a few exhaust shops that you can have two identical models of car fit the same identical exhaust and they could sound totally different,i assume that vairables in engine build,machineing etc could be the cause of that.as for anyone that fits a 3'' system on a n/a car is wasteing alot of money,i no it looks good and at idle sounds good but the power loss at low to mid range is quite bad also take into consideration of fuel waste due to haveing to push down further on the accelerator to make up for power loss, trust me i have being there and tried that.best size pipe i believe is 2 1/2 for rb25 and for rb20 is 2 1/4 for low drone note at 50khm,i no some people like the car loud it draws attention but here in nz it draws the attention eg.police.these skylines are very hard cars to get a good sounding system and good power range without a bit loss in either of these factors its alot of trial error until you build up a system,even now im considering adding another resonator with expansion chamber i have noticed a bit of a loss power low down on hills

  • 14 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...