Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Clutch has apparently died in my R32 GT-R so its time to do a switcheroo. Whilst its all apart it might be worthwhile adding a lightened flywheel.

So does anyone have a lightened flywheel for an R32 GT-R (1989 model: can never remember if they are push or pull) sitting around that they want to sell? Alternatively, does if anyone knows of some good deals lemme know.

;)

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81597-r32-gt-r-flywheel/
Share on other sites

Push or pull doesn't matter to the flywheel but for reference the 89 should be a push clutch.

We can supply a brand new Fidanza flywheel which is l/weight ( approx 4.5kg ) alloy with a replaceable steel insert.

It is also a pretty purple and is $660 incl plus freight

Cheers

ken

lucien have you driven a car with a light flywheel on the road? the reduction in torque at low revs is noticable.....

High duncan,

No, I have not had the pleasure, I have only read other people's experiences (which are overwhelmingly positive, but you wouldn't expect them to be too critical of their decision having just shelled out $500+ :huh:).

Does the faster revving, in your experience, mitigate some of the torque loss at low revs? Not worth the tradeoff?

  • 2 months later...

I'm in the same situation at the moment.. clutch needs replacing 'cause it's stuffed and I'm thinking about doing the lightened flywheel at the same time.

Since the car is a daily driver more than anything else I really didn't want to go under 5kg. UAS have one at 6kg but I called them up today and they said they won't have any for a few months (at best).

I can't be bothered waiting that long so I'm considering the option of just machining the stock one down a bit.. maybe shave off a kilo or so. Don't really know what a safe limit is but I'll get someone that knows what they're doing to do it.

Anyone else have their opinions on this?

I bough the car with a stock flywheel in, and changed to a lightened one, got sick of it. As Duncan says driving around town its annoying. Anything under 2,000rpm and my car would shudder... I changed back to a stock flywheel and am glad i did. Car is much nicer to drive with the stock flywheel.

I never noticed a speed increase in reving, but that would probably because i fitted a twinplate with my lightened flywheel, so the twin plate+lightened flywheel probably weighed the same as the single+stock flywheel.

My advice? Save your money, keep the stock flywheel (get it machined if it needs it obviously). Jim Berry told me the same thing - said the Japs usualy get it right with thier flywheels, they are a good weight. Being turbo cars we need to keep the rpm spooling, if it was a torque monstor down low, then maybe consider a lightened flywheel.

Hope this helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...