Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Im selling my car in a few months and im looking at buying a skyline GTS R33 (non-turbo) for ruffly under $15,000 AUS

I will have around 19,000 or if im lucky 20,000 to spend on the car overall (includes purchase)

I dont want to touch the engine unless its to improve fuel economics or to fix bits, i have already asked about km's (ruffly 450 - 550km's per tank??)

i intend to do alot of exterior work (body kits and neons)

note: I know they are illegal but u can install a switch to turn them off, use for show-offs or cruising

If i cannot find a black skyline R33 GTS (non-turbo) i will repaint it with Jet Black, but i dont know how expensive it is to repaint etc. as i hear there can be double coat etc. for it (im new to the whole custom thing lol :rofl:

the audio system will be the pride and joy of the car and im allowing up to 1,500 for the system (includes install). I have sourced some ideas for it but i have a few questions which are below.

Audio Questions

1. I was wondering if its possible to install 6 speakers (2 front, 2 rear doors, 2 in back near the window) or can you only have 4 speakers??

2. Is it wise to have more than 2 subwoofers? (i was thinking of either 2 x 12" subwoofers in the boot, or if finances are nice then 2 x 12" and 1 x 15")

3. What type of amp will i need for?? (4 channel 400 watt kenwood or sony)

i will have more questions later on

thanks alot :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81810-my-plan-is-it-good-but/
Share on other sites

Is it wise to have more than 2 subwoofers? (i was thinking of either 2 x 12" subwoofers in the boot, or if finances are nice then 2 x 12" and 1 x 15")

whats the point? if set up correctly you cant really sit in the car with one 12' ..... too much bass sounds terrible... anymore than 1 is a waste of money and an overkill.

It also sounds like your dreams are bigger than your budget. With what you are talking about.. it being your pride and joy youll need a lot more than 1500

ps: audio section :rofl:

lol i know i have alot to learn but thats why im asking for help

liber8_d you said that my budget for buying the car is probably more than you'll need....

how much would you advice on spending, just for the car alone?

i will tone down the audio system lol :rofl: will only get 4 speakers. (what do you suggest)

thanks for the help and i know the audio section exhists but i have questions outside of audio such as paint jobs.

mate there is one forsale that is what you are looking for its black full stero in boot and everything you need for a non turbo.

just need to add a body kit and the neons and you will be set .

the car has just been resprayed and looks smick the guy u need to talk to is chrisnichollsis he will tell you everything you need to know cos it his car.

Gday champ.

You won't need anywhere near that amount of money for a non turbo r33. If you import yourself you could probably get one for peanuts.

If you want the stereo to be the pride and joy allow for about $10k for that.

One 12" as someone said is plenty for bass but you'll have to think if you're going to SQ or SPL. That is sound quality or sound pressure level (loudness).

If you're going for SQ you might prefer 2x8" or 2x10" which will give you better response and more SQ.

If you're going for SPL you might just like 2x15" and reinforce your bootlid :rofl:

Either way there's a reason why for the cost of a single IDMAX driver you can buy 10 sony explod drivers of the same size. It's all about quality, so forget buying simply on size and rms - look at the overall quality. Subs that report 1000rms usually mean PMPO not WRMS and are probably closer to 300wrms.

Just re-iterating if this is going to be a show only car you will need alot more than $1500 to do it up. If it's going to have street rep then it won't work because neons and massive kits in a non turbo skyline will be embarressing the 10th time you get smoked by a vvti echo.

Good luck :rofl:

thanks for all the audio advice someonestolecc :rofl:

i would like SQ far more than SPL. I have decided to spend more on the audio system and wait longer for other upgrades (around 2,500 to 3,000 on audio to start with and then work up)

i wont be using the car for street rep, i want to make a head turner car (if that makes sense)

also i have looked at the car "Let me drive" and i would loveee to buy that car and its exactly what i would want but sadly its a manual and i :rofl: drive autos (no manual cars in my family so i couldnt learn it...:rofl: if it was auto then i would snap that thing up faster than a hungry fat man at a buffet...

anymore info or advice for the audio and brands that are good (i hear kenwood is very good, also the sony exploder series is good??...wrong??)

thanks again for the help

when i buy the car i will keep you up to date on all the upgrades :rofl:

1) a non-turbo will come in well under $15K, maybe under $10K? good luck selling it though - its hard enough to sell an import let alone a non-turbo one.

2) I think you can have a pretty good audio system for $1500 - sure it won't be show quality ect. but it will get the job done with ease and certainly be loud enough.

3) Why on earth do you want to put a massive body kit and neons on a non-turbo skyline? No offence but be prepared to be ridiculed by everyone else on the road. I'm not criticising, Iv'e been there and done that when i was 18 (ok not neons but there was certainly a corolla and RICE involved). All show and no go is not a good thing.

yeh i intend to keep the car for a good 5 to 10 years (if it lasts that long, hopefully)

regarding to 2), i know you can get a pretty decent one for 1,500 but i want to create a nice looking audio system that maybe in the future (years time etc.) will goto a few car meets/shows etc.

im not buying the car for a full performance car, otherwise i would go for the Turbo etc.

i love the look of these cars and want to customize the exterior and interior of the car alot. my aim is to make a stylish car with a pretty decent audio system in it.

im just wondering the cost of a full body spray (black) as if i can find one for under 10k and is another colour i will snap it up

has anyone got any personal experience or suggestsions from brand names for speakers, subwoofers, amps or headunits?

thanks

My advice for the audio if you intend to compete in shows etc if you want to buy a system just give Marty from fhrxstudios.com a ring/email and tell him you have x to spend and you want to achieve y.

A full body spray can be anything from a few grand to double that.

If you intend to keep the car for 5-10 years I advise you getting a turbo manual or you will get bored. If you can drive ok now shifting isn't hard. If you weren't born a driver then fair enough stay with the slush stick :rofl:

Dude, I agree with someonestolecc, go the turbo or you'll regret it later. If you are scared of manual trans, don't be; I bought a GTR when I couldn't drive stick hardly at all, and you learn pretty quick. Outlay a few hundred for driving lessons if you have to, or ask anyone, uncles, cousins, friends etc if they can teach you in their manual car.

A decent full respray would cost around $3k or maybe a little less if you can do some prep yourself.

My tip: research, research, research!!! Then, import a black GTS-T, and get a decent audio setup($3k) and then forget about audio, because you'll have no money left over from buying too many mods.

mate get the stick,

from personal experence this year i moved to a manual and is been grouse, might take a bit but will be much more worth it in the long run cos those autos give up easy( i know had the non turbo, with body kit and stuff and it cost me more to have the auto then the manual.) driving lessens are not much and relly worth it in the long run.

melbmaniac, sounds like a good plan... i mean ya gotta start somewhere right.

Im 19 and i am looking for a 33GTS-T - but i don't want to be over power:weight in melb here... so i think i'm waiting until off P's.

Anyway. I started driving in auto and it's boring man

its like steering not driving.

as stated before, i'm sure you can find someone - anyone - who will be willing to teach you the basics. My dad taught me manual, didn't need lessons... but each to their own and everyone learns differently.

hell i'll come down and teach ya some basics. hehe.

im in caulfield btw.

:kewl:

If he wants at auto non-turbo R33 then I don't see the problem. He'll probably end up saving a little on maintenance (tires, turbo parts etc) and he clearly doesn't have an interest in going fast.

He wants a car to look at and R33's are hot (in my opinion) so why shouldn't he get one?

Besides, a non turbo auto will be the cheapest of the lot cause no-one wants em :rofl:

well its definatly giving me something to think about now lol

i live in mount eliza (near frankston)...which is suprisingly close to the SAU Vic club address

thanks for the links to the sites and car audio help :rofl: much appreciated

my dad knows how to drive a manual, so if he is willing i will get lessons off him :rofl:

*edit* also i would like to say this is a great community for skyline or soon-to-be skyline owners, very helpful and welcoming :rofl: i will be sure to join the Vic Club when i get the car

Dont forget insurance, it might be worth looking at www.justcars.com.au and doing a quote.

I think you'll will find you will still be up for $2000 a year, even though its non-turbo.

PS i'm from Mt Martha, which school did/do you go to?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...