Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just got myself a Z32 AFM and was wondering if I plug it in and replace it with the standard one in a R33 will it stuff up the power fc tune and run lean or anything?

Do I need to tell the FC its an Z32 AFM? What happens if you dont?

Does it need a retune?

Will it cause any damage?

The stock AFM was not maxing out, but rather would just go the tuner and get the Z32 tuned together with injectors etc.

The problem is that iam trading in the stock AFM hence need to run off the Z32 for a few weeks.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/
Share on other sites

ok, the Z32 will not just plug in. you will need to wire it up. you can select the VG30 AFM option in the PFC this will help it to run, but in my experience it will still need a tune and probably wont run very well until this is done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1486537
Share on other sites

Beer Baron is correct. I've also just bought one recently and was told by my mechanic that my PFC will need to be retuned once it is fitted. I'm sorta in the same position as gtrGhosTDoGG11, I've also got injectors and new fuel pump on the way, so I'm just going to get them all fitted at the same time as the AFM and then do the tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1487302
Share on other sites

if it was my car i wouldnt expect a powerfc retune would be required.

you simply select the vg30 afm in the setting, airflow menu and that should be it.

the powerfc will recalcuate airflow vs voltage and go based off that

id be pretty surprised if u had to retune as well as choose the new vg30 setting

correct me if im wrong cos id like to know, but just amazed if it needed retune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1488103
Share on other sites

if it was my car i wouldnt expect a powerfc retune would be required.

you simply select the vg30 afm in the setting, airflow menu and that should be it.

the powerfc will recalcuate airflow vs voltage and go based off that

id be pretty surprised if u had to retune as well as choose the new vg30 setting

correct me if im wrong cos id like to know, but just amazed if it needed retune

I'm pretty damn sure that you are right.

Just plug it in and select Z32 from the AFM list, and thats it. The powerfc re calculates it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1488189
Share on other sites

Thats what I assumed. But had to make sure, cause I didnt want to stuff anything up.

Iam not adjusting boost or anything, its just by upgrading the AFM i can handle more air coming in, but since the air coming in hasnt changed, why need to retune?

Maybe the diamter is different? Hence air volume coming in might be different? Hence yous elect the Z32 from the list hence this should recalulate it since it knows the different diamter? etc?

Those are my thoughts.

Is there a step by step guide to get into that menu and changing to Z32. Its in JAP i remember when you go in there.

Lets start at the main menu and tell me the exact seqenece of keys to press. =p

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1488194
Share on other sites

if it was my car i wouldnt expect a powerfc retune would be required.

you simply select the vg30 afm in the setting, airflow menu and that should be it.

the powerfc will recalcuate airflow vs voltage and go based off that

id be pretty surprised if u had to retune as well as choose the new vg30 setting

correct me if im wrong cos id like to know, but just amazed if it needed retune

in my experience a re-tune has always been required. yes it will run once you plug it in and select VG30, but it won't be all that crash hot.

have you actually fitted a Z32AFM? if so what was your experience? I have seen GTSTs, silvias, GTI-Rs all needed some re-tuning after fitting the Z32 AFM.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1488473
Share on other sites

Thats what I assumed. But had to make sure, cause I didnt want to stuff anything up.

Iam not adjusting boost or anything, its just by upgrading the AFM i can handle more air coming in, but since the air coming in hasnt changed, why need to retune?

Maybe the diamter is different? Hence air volume coming in might be different? Hence yous elect the Z32 from the list hence this should recalulate it since it knows the different diamter? etc?

Those are my thoughts.

Is there a step by step guide to get into that menu and changing to Z32. Its in JAP i remember when you go in there.

Lets start at the main menu and tell me the exact seqenece of keys to press. =p

the diameter is the same mate, it's the sensor which is different. electrically speaking.

my advice is to take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

and BTW it's not in jap, it's in english.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1488479
Share on other sites

Sorry to be abit of a hi-jacker to this thread, but my current set up with stock turbo and the car pushing 202rwkw, I still have the current series 2 afm in my R33.

On the PFC, im not too sure if the AFM ismaxing out, but my reading is 5115 on the AFM voltage all the time after a quick sprints.

Does this mean the AFM needs to be upgraded to say a Z32 on my car?

Will the Z32 afm provide any benefit in terms of economy or power delivery?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81910-z32-afm-install/#findComment-1488509
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...