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Aftermarket radiator caps and oil cap! Do they WORK?

West

By West,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Mik Experienced

Mik

Posted
Posted
Hi all, just want to know from those who have Apexi Gt radiator cap, oil cap....ect..on their car, do they really work?

  For instance the Apexi Gt radiator cap, it said to hold up to 1.3 kg of pressure and help raise boiling point...ect... Is it real?

Yes for the radiator cap and the oil cap still stops the oil from coming out.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The oil cap won't offer any benifits however the radiator cap will under race conditions or heavy traffic.

The only problem with a higher pressure rad cap is that you will be much more likely to blow radiator hoses.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The oil cap won't offer any benifits however the radiator cap will under race conditions or heavy traffic.

The only problem with a higher pressure rad cap is that you will be much more likely to blow radiator hoses.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Well I have noticed a big difference going from a shagged cap to a decent one.. it can make what seems like an inefficient radiator perfectly fine.

The usual brassy coloured ones you seem to find in australia seems to pretty reasonable quality though.. I guess because the big cars in Australia are designed to run under high outback heat..

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

case in point...

on RHS is my old stock R33 cap.. (painted by me ricer red, ignore that).

on the LHS is your generic $10 one from any parts place now on my 32. Note the thicker top pressure seal, and how the rubber comes over the top of the cap.

I am not sure whether the stock GTR one is anything the same, but its not hard to improve on the standard design..

Anybody have a picture of a Greddy/Apexi/probably overpriced ricer one to compare?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
case in point...  

on RHS is my old stock R33 cap.. (painted by me ricer red, ignore that).  

on the LHS is your generic $10 one from any parts place now on my 32. Note the thicker top pressure seal, and how the rubber comes over the top of the cap.  

I am not sure whether the stock GTR one is anything the same, but its not hard to improve on the standard design..  

Anybody have a picture of a Greddy/Apexi/probably overpriced ricer one to compare?

the pink one in your picture has had parts of the rubber seal break off. it wasn't like that when in good condition.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

West,

Have you got a 'real' temperature guage to determine if the car is getting hot or not?

The stock temp guage is a 3 stage. Its either cold in the middle or hot.

For example the temperature range in the middle is from 72degree's right up to 102degree's from memory.

102degree's I would consider to be too hot, especially if it is reaching these temps on the street. On the track sure, lap after lap on a stock cooling system will see these temps but definitely not on the street.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
West,

 

Have you got a 'real' temperature guage to determine if the car is getting hot or not?

 

The stock temp guage is a 3 stage. Its either cold in the middle or hot.

 

For example the temperature range in the middle is from 72degree's right up to 102degree's from memory.

 

102degree's I would consider to be too hot, especially if it is reaching these temps on the street. On the track sure, lap after lap on a stock cooling system will see these temps but definitely not on the street.

I would say 100 is too hot any time. on the GTR the water temp never gets above 83 degrees on the track, that's including 10 lap race when pushing very hard (too hard!). that's with stock radiator and a cusco cap. car is making 250kw atrw but does run a big oil cooler which would help. for me 90 i reckon is too high.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

my GTR with oil cooler hit 105 water temp at the track on a 35degree day...

fatter radiator methinks :D

Also, gordo - while the rubber lip might make a small difference, the only thing affecting the rad cap from opening is the spring - higher spring force, higher pressure to open :D so all the aftermarket 'high pressure' caps have are a stiffer spring... much like an aftermarket wastegate actuator :)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

holy sh1t mate. 105 is pretty well up there. may i ask where is the oil cooler mounted? i haven't pounded it on a 35 degree day though either so that would certainly make a difference.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

The cooler is in the duct in the front bar passenger side. It is poorly placed, so we're going to go at the bar with a dremel... might also put in an exit duct in the side of the front bar ala Nismo style

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah mine is in the passenger duct also, but with an aluminium duct built around it to duct all the air through the core, and with an exit duct in front of the wheel.

what kind of oil temps were you getting on that day?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah I would say that was helping drag up the water temp a bit too. i guess they both feed off each other to a degree and once they start to go up it's a bad cycle. having done a few track days this year and even a 10 lap race (including comp pitstop etc) i haven't got oil temp over 95 and water temp never over 83. i think the duct and giving the air an escape will help a lot.

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