Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have used the meguiars wet look polish and their wax, and while its great when its done, it requires FAR more elbow grease than the equivalent AUTOGLYM products.

Now im using AUTOGLYM super resin polish, followed by their super hard coat protectant/gloss. Its awesome stuff and HELL EASY to apply and buff off.

Save your time and effort and try this stuff.

(i use the meguiars foam applicator pads, and their terry cloth buffing towels, they are cool. Dont use an old t-shirt or tea towel!)

Originally posted by inark

how i dry my car...

140 down around the factory areas near my car wash until it is damn near dry....

The best way to do it.... The water streaming across the windshield adds to the star-trek'n boost feel of it all :thumbsup: I live near the airport so it works well for me too.

When I get back home though I've got to wipe the dirt from the back of the skirts at either side (with a dry cloth).:mad:

46n2

  • 4 weeks later...

Well an update on the washing and drying of my car.

I used the Meguiars Gold Class Wash with one of their wash mitts - great, those mitts are heaps better than sponges and the wash seemed to work well.

Then I polished most of the car using Meguiars Deep Crystal polish - recommended - it deepened the colour (red) that was really noticable. It also brought up the colour of the mirrors that are fading. Good stuff.

Then I applied Deep Crystal wax over the top of the polish (after rubbing off the polish of course). This was all based on Meguiars web site on how to do it properly. They recommend to polish first then wax.

I found the Meguiars products much easier to wipe off than say Turtle Wax that's for sure with much better results. I just gotta keep doing it.

Oh and one thing is for sure, in relation to towels and polishing cloths, good quality ones make life a lot easier and you get better results. I had some cheaper polishing cloths that didn't last too long, so used those to get most of the polish/wax off then a Meguiars towel to finish it off.

I too polished my car 2-3wks ago with Meguiars Deep Cystal Polish and it was damn easy with damn good results. All up it took me around an hour and the paint (red) came up like the car was brand new its amazing. Washing is so much easier now with heaps better results.

I also got a new chamois which cost me about $19, 1 wipe of any section now matter how much water is on it and its totally dry, no streaks or water stains etc just perfect.

if u read the back of some of the meguiars stuff it says to have the water streaming across the car......i.e dont use a nozzle. I gave this a try and I found that if I use the nozzle i get lots of beads all over the car...and it takes ages to chamois it dry. But if you stream it over your car the water just rolls off...and you dont have to chamois off very much water.

give it a try people.

I tried with the water streaming after reading the back of the Meguiars stuff and it works, much less water. Dragging the chamois also works too - still can't get used to something wet actually drying !!!!

I also used the Meguiars (yes I have nearly even product of theirs now) foam applicator pads - what a great way to apply polish/wax, so easy and you tend to use less as the foam absorbs some of it so you don't need to keep putting new stuff on all the time.

Meguiars = revelation for Red Sky :lol:

BTW has anyone used Meguiars Deep Crystal paint cleaner or Scratch X? - I want to fix up the roof that looks ugly with lots of marks and rough paint even after washing, polishing and waxing.

Buy the biggest and best synthetic chamios you can buy, that does make a difference. Mine was $40. Its huge and works well.

Another tip if you want your windows to look really clean and clear :

1. Spray windows with Windex.

2. Wipe off with 2 sheets of black n white newspaper per window.

Do the inside of the windows too.

It leaves no streaks at all. Give it a try. You wont be dissapointed.

Cheers

i just used meguiars scratch X and OMG some of my scratches have virtually dissapeard, and I swear by Gold Class liquid wax and shampoo (yes I buy the christmas packs :P)

I think the trick to getting the chamois ready is to always wash it in soapy warm water after every wipe, then run it thru warm water, wring then wipe again... well its what I do, and it works best for me. For soap I just use a bit of Maguiars shampoo (left over from car wash)

Alright guys don't laugh at me.

Tiny bit off topic.

Is is alright to wash the inside of the muffler as i do this at the moment with my 3 inch tips and like the clean look instead of all that sooty crap, also has a nicer note afterwards, but i'm getting a skyline with HKS super drager and want to know if its a no-no due to rust and stuff

Originally posted by Jimbo2000

Alright guys don't laugh at me.

Tiny bit off topic.

Is is alright to wash the inside of the muffler as i do this at the moment with my 3 inch tips and like the clean look instead of all that sooty crap, also has a nicer note afterwards, but i'm getting a skyline with  HKS super drager and want to know if its a no-no due to rust and stuff

You actually notice the difference from cleaning the little bit of soot out of your exhaust tip? You must have a keen eye for detail.

Washing a Super Dragger won't hurt because its made out of stainless-steal. IE: Won't rust. Just don't squirt water inside it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...