Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so no prob with the abs at all. that will be grate.

and i will have no probs with the rotors?

are the brake lines the same or will i have to get some made up?

s1 C34 - use r32/r33 brakes with 12mm diameter bolts

s2 C34 - use r34 with 14mm diameter

M35 - Jump off a bridge :P (just kidding guys, you can have some R34 brakes if you'd like)

ok cool so the stock stag lines will work on the gtr calipers

usually, but you have to remove the "olive" from the caliper (where the brake line goes in there is a small fitting pressed into the bottom of the hole, screw a screw into it and pull it out with pliers or something)

Backing plate will probably need trimming for the calliper to fit, and maybe also for the larger rotor

If you can get the lines to suit its always good

Also, buy some tube spanners so you don't round anything

Ok yer was thinking that would need trimming.

I would love the lines as well but the guy I getting them off is using them for his new brakes but might see if he has the stock 1s

Yer I not know if I will do my self yet as I not have that many tools. I do most things to my car just some things better to not to if u not have the right tools.

Ok yer was thinking that would need trimming.

I would love the lines as well but the guy I getting them off is using them for his new brakes but might see if he has the stock 1s

Yer I not know if I will do my self yet as I not have that many tools. I do most things to my car just some things better to not to if u not have the right tools.

I have converted my S2 to all R34 gtt spec brakes (F+R) in my garage.

The rear dust covers needed a little trim around the caliper area, i just used tin snips, a file and pliers to bend the daggy bits.

From memory the front dust covers were fine.

The diameter of the rotors was close enough to just bend them a little where they touched.

I had the rear R34 soft lines but they dont match the Stagea at the chassis side where they join the hardlines.

I was able to pop the ferrule out of the caliper with a self tapper on both sets of calipers and use the original banjo fittings.

The rear banjo bolts needed abut 3mm taken off its length as they still bottomed out, took my time with a hack saw and a file and no dramas.

Also there is a fitting block bolted to the back of the rear R34 caliper that connected the soft line to a short hard line into the ferrule fitting.

I couldnt find a way of making the blocks work so they're in a box under my work bench with all the old Stag brake parts.

I have left the brake lines as per Stagea spec, I would've preferred to get lines made to match but I only had one car so had to do all the work in one move.

Brake line manufacturers in Perth weren't too keen on helping me out without exact specs or something to copy.

I drove my car in before i started but PBP weren't keen on looking under my car to comapre the R34 lines with stag shit and making a mix, basically I needed to tell them what I needed but I didn't know.

I can see their points so never mind.

I used all the original Stag caliper bolts but they were the same as R34 ones.

Some tools i was glad to have were:

- a big (say 1.5 ft) 1/2" breaker bar to crack the mount bolts, (they were real tight as you would expect)

- brake hose clamper things, to save you having to do a major brake fluid bleed and to save the concrete in your garage.

- flare spanners.

- a few M6 (i think) bolts to get the discs off (probably get away with a soft faced hammer).

- 2 litres of fluid, I always bleed too much apparently.

- enough combinations of spanners and socket sets to get into all manner of awkward of spots.

- high jack stands to be comfortable

- time, it took me a 3/4 of a day each end, but I'm not a mechanic and I try to take my time to get things right once.

Edited by shane344

probably the best option for brake lines would be to get something that works

then go to a place that will make up lines with the brakes on the car

even if they aren't braided, new lines will be nice and firm for another 10-15 years anyway

need brake help-urgent guys

Got a 44000k S2 and the brakes are shattering bad, gave the car to a shop yesterday and they machined all the discs and now its even worse and the pads were not replaced as he said that cant be the problem :(

need help guys whos the brake guru on here :):) :)

Edited by mazzas98s2

Hey shane where did u get ur brake setup from.

Also how much should i expect to pay?

I got the front set from the for sale section here after posting a wanted to buy.

I stumbled on the rear set on gumtree from a dude wrecking a bent 34 sedan (hubs, hand brake cables and all).

I paid something around $400 an end, I missed out on the shim plates on the front set and that was a pain as they squealed constantly without them.

Needed new pads on both but the discs are still second hand and fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...