Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so no prob with the abs at all. that will be grate.

and i will have no probs with the rotors?

are the brake lines the same or will i have to get some made up?

s1 C34 - use r32/r33 brakes with 12mm diameter bolts

s2 C34 - use r34 with 14mm diameter

M35 - Jump off a bridge :P (just kidding guys, you can have some R34 brakes if you'd like)

ok cool so the stock stag lines will work on the gtr calipers

usually, but you have to remove the "olive" from the caliper (where the brake line goes in there is a small fitting pressed into the bottom of the hole, screw a screw into it and pull it out with pliers or something)

Backing plate will probably need trimming for the calliper to fit, and maybe also for the larger rotor

If you can get the lines to suit its always good

Also, buy some tube spanners so you don't round anything

Ok yer was thinking that would need trimming.

I would love the lines as well but the guy I getting them off is using them for his new brakes but might see if he has the stock 1s

Yer I not know if I will do my self yet as I not have that many tools. I do most things to my car just some things better to not to if u not have the right tools.

Ok yer was thinking that would need trimming.

I would love the lines as well but the guy I getting them off is using them for his new brakes but might see if he has the stock 1s

Yer I not know if I will do my self yet as I not have that many tools. I do most things to my car just some things better to not to if u not have the right tools.

I have converted my S2 to all R34 gtt spec brakes (F+R) in my garage.

The rear dust covers needed a little trim around the caliper area, i just used tin snips, a file and pliers to bend the daggy bits.

From memory the front dust covers were fine.

The diameter of the rotors was close enough to just bend them a little where they touched.

I had the rear R34 soft lines but they dont match the Stagea at the chassis side where they join the hardlines.

I was able to pop the ferrule out of the caliper with a self tapper on both sets of calipers and use the original banjo fittings.

The rear banjo bolts needed abut 3mm taken off its length as they still bottomed out, took my time with a hack saw and a file and no dramas.

Also there is a fitting block bolted to the back of the rear R34 caliper that connected the soft line to a short hard line into the ferrule fitting.

I couldnt find a way of making the blocks work so they're in a box under my work bench with all the old Stag brake parts.

I have left the brake lines as per Stagea spec, I would've preferred to get lines made to match but I only had one car so had to do all the work in one move.

Brake line manufacturers in Perth weren't too keen on helping me out without exact specs or something to copy.

I drove my car in before i started but PBP weren't keen on looking under my car to comapre the R34 lines with stag shit and making a mix, basically I needed to tell them what I needed but I didn't know.

I can see their points so never mind.

I used all the original Stag caliper bolts but they were the same as R34 ones.

Some tools i was glad to have were:

- a big (say 1.5 ft) 1/2" breaker bar to crack the mount bolts, (they were real tight as you would expect)

- brake hose clamper things, to save you having to do a major brake fluid bleed and to save the concrete in your garage.

- flare spanners.

- a few M6 (i think) bolts to get the discs off (probably get away with a soft faced hammer).

- 2 litres of fluid, I always bleed too much apparently.

- enough combinations of spanners and socket sets to get into all manner of awkward of spots.

- high jack stands to be comfortable

- time, it took me a 3/4 of a day each end, but I'm not a mechanic and I try to take my time to get things right once.

Edited by shane344

probably the best option for brake lines would be to get something that works

then go to a place that will make up lines with the brakes on the car

even if they aren't braided, new lines will be nice and firm for another 10-15 years anyway

need brake help-urgent guys

Got a 44000k S2 and the brakes are shattering bad, gave the car to a shop yesterday and they machined all the discs and now its even worse and the pads were not replaced as he said that cant be the problem :(

need help guys whos the brake guru on here :):) :)

Edited by mazzas98s2

Hey shane where did u get ur brake setup from.

Also how much should i expect to pay?

I got the front set from the for sale section here after posting a wanted to buy.

I stumbled on the rear set on gumtree from a dude wrecking a bent 34 sedan (hubs, hand brake cables and all).

I paid something around $400 an end, I missed out on the shim plates on the front set and that was a pain as they squealed constantly without them.

Needed new pads on both but the discs are still second hand and fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...