Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah i havnt yet R31power but i plan too,only thing is i gotta put it on the dyno to check a/f ratios on high boost,also i gotta check out if theres any pressure drop in the pipeing

Inark the pipeing cost me all up around $90,and the radiator hose and clamps cost me $40 so all up around $130-150

only thing is its better to gas weld or tig weld it,i could with your help work out all the pipeing ill tack it into place then u could get some1 with a tig to weld it nicely

also the pod filter i got it for cheap,plus i liked it cause it kinda acts like a heat shield i gotta get some ducting into the end of it to make it more effective

me and Driftzor have decided to do mine in a couple of weeks using a similar method but when its all ready to fit im going to get them chromed....

ive got a mig welder at home which we can use and grinders and stuff.... should be fun... will be taking lots of pics as we go.

Not bad mate. May I offer you some constructive critisim....Your radiator pipe will last about a month or two then you will suffer a nasty eruption of hot water and coolent. The engine moves a lot more than you may realise and this will rub on the hose. Because the hose you have chosen has wire running through it this will make the effect worse. Unfortunately there probably isn't much you can do other than using some straight metal pipe and some tight 90 degree rubber bends to mate it up. I could be wrong but the same thing happened to my install and the hose wasn't actually touching when it just sat there but once the engine moved it starts to rub. All I can say is keep an eye on it OFTEN..:(

The other thing is did you run some weld around the ends of all the pipes you made to stop boost presure from blowing them off ?

Finally, try getting your pipes powder coated, that lot should only cost about $40 and it is a much tuffer finish than paint.

Great effort and good on you for having a shot at it yourself, this is what modifing cars is all about.

thanks Boostmeister this is the type of replys i need,well alot of ppl need. The more info the better, i actually thought of it rubbing but didnt really think it would matter that much but ill have to put some more thought into it,also im trying to get a custom plenum made up with the throttlebody at the front,and also make the pipeing out of ally at the same time,as this will reduce lag a little and also look a treat.

And yeah i have thought about putting the pod underneath i probably will do this in the next few weeks when i have some spare time,also i could put all the plastic covers back in to stop crap from going into the pod :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...