Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah i havnt yet R31power but i plan too,only thing is i gotta put it on the dyno to check a/f ratios on high boost,also i gotta check out if theres any pressure drop in the pipeing

Inark the pipeing cost me all up around $90,and the radiator hose and clamps cost me $40 so all up around $130-150

only thing is its better to gas weld or tig weld it,i could with your help work out all the pipeing ill tack it into place then u could get some1 with a tig to weld it nicely

also the pod filter i got it for cheap,plus i liked it cause it kinda acts like a heat shield i gotta get some ducting into the end of it to make it more effective

me and Driftzor have decided to do mine in a couple of weeks using a similar method but when its all ready to fit im going to get them chromed....

ive got a mig welder at home which we can use and grinders and stuff.... should be fun... will be taking lots of pics as we go.

Not bad mate. May I offer you some constructive critisim....Your radiator pipe will last about a month or two then you will suffer a nasty eruption of hot water and coolent. The engine moves a lot more than you may realise and this will rub on the hose. Because the hose you have chosen has wire running through it this will make the effect worse. Unfortunately there probably isn't much you can do other than using some straight metal pipe and some tight 90 degree rubber bends to mate it up. I could be wrong but the same thing happened to my install and the hose wasn't actually touching when it just sat there but once the engine moved it starts to rub. All I can say is keep an eye on it OFTEN..:(

The other thing is did you run some weld around the ends of all the pipes you made to stop boost presure from blowing them off ?

Finally, try getting your pipes powder coated, that lot should only cost about $40 and it is a much tuffer finish than paint.

Great effort and good on you for having a shot at it yourself, this is what modifing cars is all about.

thanks Boostmeister this is the type of replys i need,well alot of ppl need. The more info the better, i actually thought of it rubbing but didnt really think it would matter that much but ill have to put some more thought into it,also im trying to get a custom plenum made up with the throttlebody at the front,and also make the pipeing out of ally at the same time,as this will reduce lag a little and also look a treat.

And yeah i have thought about putting the pod underneath i probably will do this in the next few weeks when i have some spare time,also i could put all the plastic covers back in to stop crap from going into the pod :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...