Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

People... you're all wrong!

It's Rezz here, I'll straighten all this shenannigans out! (hehehe :rofl:)

Ok, Rrrrrready??? (lol)

GReddy: pronouced 'Goo-re-dee' or in English 'Gre-dee' from Japanese 'グレッディ' = 'Goo-re-dee'

A'pex(i): pronouced 'A-peck-koo-soo' or in English 'Aye-pecks' from Japanese 'アッペクス' = 'Ah-pe-koo-soo' - The 'i' IS NOT pronounced.

**Edit: Just because theres a capital 'G' and 'R' in there, doesn't mean anything! This is Japanese limited understanding of the English language remember...

Yeah thats gr8 guys no one really knows your all just arguing like the guys at work do. Does any one really know?? Dont make me ring Advan performance the big stockists of GReddy parts and ask them...... I say it like gredy cause thats how Kez outa the High Octane DVDS pronounces it and i fiqured all though hes kiwi he would know, allthough the way they say subaru and nissan is really wierd????

Yeah thats gr8 guys no one really knows your all just arguing like the guys at work do. Does any one really know?? Dont make me ring Advan performance the big stockists of GReddy parts and ask them...... I say it like gredy cause thats how Kez outa the High Octane DVDS pronounces it and i fiqured all though hes kiwi he would know, allthough the way they say subaru and nissan is really wierd????

Yes, I know, thats why I posted above. I've lived in Japan for 5 years and have met with Japanese sales reps from Trust and A'pex (and others) and heard them introduce themselves using the pronunciation I posted above... that enough? lol

who is they? i assume you are talking about japanese people...

some of your japanese pronounciations are off too.

ps: i believe is G Reddy

sorry, by 'they' i meant the people who invented the name. as some of the names i listed are not jap.

yeh i'm sure they are prob quite off, im just saying what i know, i'm not japanese, but my 'pronounciation key' is just a guide from what i know, its not supposed to be worthy of webber, just contributing to the forum, but i think you get the drift...

its not law either so by all means correct me where im wrong, i'm always happy to be corrected! :)

dan

I used to say G-Reddy, but I say greddy now. easier and yeah... sounds better lol. And it looks like that's the actual way to pronounce it, given the evidence for...

Lol rezz, I can so see that coming out of thier mouths :P dorreeft!

It's G-Reddy... Without a doubt. Now do you say G-rex or Grex? We could be here all day if we wanted to analyse exectly what those crazy Jap tuners (and japanese in general) are trying to say!!

Sava

Fulllcok Motorsport

www.fulllock.com

It's G-Reddy... Without a doubt. Now do you say G-rex or Grex? We could be here all day if we wanted to analyse exectly what those crazy Jap tuners (and japanese in general) are trying to say!!

Sava

Fulllcok Motorsport

www.fulllock.com

It's Gr-ed-dee. :rolleyes: Remember this:

GReddy: pronouced 'Goo-re-dee' or in English 'Gre-dee' from Japanese 'グレッディ' = 'Goo-re-dee'

Theres a correct way to say it, and it would be quite embarrassing if say Tsuchiya were to come to Australia and all these Aussie so-called Japanese car experts start busting out with their own invented pronunciations just because "I can't be farked" or "that sounds stupid..."

One more time (:werd: ) with English pronunciation:

A'pex = Aye-pecks

GReddy = Gr-ed-dee

GREX = Gr-ex

GRACER = Gr-ay-ser (not: 'G-Racer!!!")

Fujitsubo = Foo-jitz-oo-boe (the emphasis is on the 'jitz' part, not: 'Foo-jit-SOO-boe)

Watanabe = Wah-tah-nah-beh... simple. (not: "Wah-tah-nayb"!!)

Tanabe = Tah-nah-beh... as above

5 Zigen = Five Ziggen ('ig' as in 'bigger') In Japanese: 'Goh Ziggen'.

RE Amemiya: Are-Eee Ah-mem-ee-yah

Cefiro = Seh-fee-roe

Hachi-Roku = Hah-chee Roh-koo (not: Roe-koo... US style :D)

Bride = Bree-deh (I suppose 'Breed' would sound better in English... don't say 'Br-eye-d'!!! Thats the epitomy of wrong)

JUN = Joo-n ('oo' as in 'put')

Tommy Kaira = Tommy K-eye-rah (not: 'K-eye-ee-rah')

Tomei = Toe-mey (not: TOMMY!)

Tsukuba = Tsoo-koo-bah

Any more just gimme a yell ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...