Clutch Change Thoughts

[lwells]

Hi Guys,

As some of you have probably noticed, my clutch has apparently died. To cut a long story short I've pretty much decided to give one of those Jim Berry clutches I keep hearing praised.

Anyway, I have a nasty habit of going a bit OTT with anything related to a car. You know the problem? Changing brake fluid becomes an excuse to change brake lines, refurb the calipers, paint the calipers, and on and on it goes.

Given the clutch is being changed I figued I would also...

• Have the clutch line changed over to a new braided clutch line (I have one sitting around)
  
• Change the thrust bearing to avoid any possible noise problems down the track
  
• Machine the flywheel
  

Are there any other bits and pieces worth doing at the same time? I was tempted to get a lightened flywheel, but I can't find any decent specials and $500-600 would probably be better spent elsewhere (or am I wrong?). What about the clutch pivot ball or sweat bearing? (I noticed UAS sells improved versions of both).

Edit: Whoops I should have mentioned, this is all for a 1989 R32 GT-R.

Cheers,

Lucien.

[cowie165]

Lucien if you can get that Maltech clutch line to fit without bending the hose at 90', please let me know!

Mark

[lwells]

Lucien if you can get that Maltech clutch line to fit without bending the hose at 90', please let me know!

Mark

Eep. That doesn't sound good. What's the go exactly? I was planning on just getting Grey Imports to do the work as I'm too busy at the moment, but if its a PITA I might not

[Cubes]

I removed the little box that resides between the slave cylinder and the master cylinder.

I simple straightened then bent the existing metal line from the master cyl. in to a 180degree bend that mates up with the rubber brake line that then connects to the slave cylinder.

The clutch feels lighter and more progressive. It has more of the usual spring to it now instead of the usual same weight all the way through. Its much nicer to drive.

Ignore the rust mark on the floor pan. Thats an old heater that went pop under the inlet manifold. The camera really shows it up as orange.

[cowie165]

Chris at SSPI went to fit the clutch line but decided against it. From memory (and this is going back six months) the braided hose would need to be bent almost right back on itself just to fit it. He wasn't too happy with that so left the rubber hose on.

I can't remember it too well though. You could try Chris again (abFlug) via PM? Sorry about the off topic.

[2rismo]

Jim's clutches = good

I suggest changing (if you don't already use it) to Redline Shockproof Lightweight ($100 tops) in the box, changing the spigot bush ($10 tops) and that's about it.

Leave the rubber clutch line as it is. Send the flywheel to Jim when you have the clutch built. He'll machine it and balance the whole assembly together and send it back marked up and complete with a new thrust bearing.

Also, change your rear main engine seal.

Adrian

[lwells]

Hi Adrian,

Box already has Redline Shockproof Lightweight (installed about 2000KM ago): if you remember I was once trying to locate some in Wollongong

Jim said to get the flywheel machined locally (he said Repco are usually OK), but perhaps I should discuss balancing as one. Jim also said he'll send down a rear main seal.

Re: the spigot bush, any thoughts on whether the UAS improved item is worth the dough ($25)?:

Click for larger image

UAS NEEDLE ROLLER SPIGOT BEARING

REPLACES THE FACTORY BRONZE SWEAT BUSH TYPE AS PER PHOTO

STRONGER THAN FACTORY WITH LESS FRICTION

Finally, why do you say stick with the standard rubber clutch line?

Sorry for all the questions: clutches aren't my speciality (obviously).

Lucien.

[2rismo]

UAS Spigot Bush looks just like the one that came out of my car. i.e. the Nissan one.

$25 is a bit rich in my opinion. You can have the one I bought from John for $15

That was a long time ago before I knew better.

Adrian

[NZM.031]

spend the money and replace everything that goes between the motor and the gearbox... saves pulling it down later for a $10 part.

i got my clutch about a month ago... upgraded gtr pressure plate, 3500tonne clamping pressure... carbodix ceremic button plate, and used the standard flywheel, but got it lightened and machined...heaps cheaper than buying an off the shelf unit, and dropped it to 16 pounds instead of 20 pounds.. the guy who made the clutch (im not sure who it was, but ill find out) said he prefered to use the standard flywheel anyway, as it has better friction properties than a billet one.

all up cost me about $1500 w/o installation as i helped out and did most of the work. throwout bearing, spigot bearing, rear main and gbox input seal were all replaced.

clutch is awesome, very grabby, takes a bit of getting used to, but its not to heavy.

cheers

Linton

[ferni]

Don't lighten the flywheel, makes driving in traffic a pain in the ass, car 'struggles' under 2,000rpm. I changed back to a std flywheel and am much happier now. I have a jim berry clutch, can't fault it yet, so definatly go for one of his. He machined my std flywheel as well.

As for thrust, get a genunine one from nissan, the UAS ones are overrated i recon, i've been told the std ones are stronger/better. Definatly change the thrust is only $45 or something.

[BHDave]

If your getting a needle roller bearing to replace the bush make sure it comes with a seal.

I have had one fitted with out a seal and a year later i was pulling the box back off to remove a bunch of bearing bits from the clutch.

[yogi000]

did mine the other night.....change clutch, rear main seal, thrust bearing, rear gear box seal (where gearbox meets tailshaft) and machine flywheel.

While its out give it a good degrease and gerni!

i'm still sore from trying it myself.

[danh]

my clutch just died tonight! pos! anyway, how do i get in contact with this jim berry and where is his shop?

what should i expect to pay for a 'next step up from stock' kinda clutch?

btw its for a r32 GTR

cheers

dan

[lwells]

Jim Berry (Race Clutch) Italia Spares

26 Gladys Street, Stones Corner

QLD 4120

(07)3847 9999

His "stage one" clutch is about $690 + tax IIRC (I can't find the piece of paper I wrote it down ).

[danh]

awesome! lwells to the rescue as always!

cheers mate

[danh]

what does the stage one clutch entail?

[lwells]

what does the stage one clutch entail?

Best to talk to Jim. He doesn't quote power figures for his clutches. Give him a call and he will go through what you want the clutch for (street, track, drag), your driving style, and the car's state of tune/power levels and then will recommend what he thinks best suits.

[danh]

ok awesome will do!

im guessing you had the clutch posted up to you, just wondering what did that cost?

[tdsepco]

How driveable are the Jim Berry clutches compared to the stock clutch?

[lwells]

ok awesome will do!

im guessing you had the clutch posted up to you, just wondering what did that cost?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sorry, missed that due to the forum change. I haven't got my replacement clutch yet: I've been too busy to do the necessary running around.

If you want feedback on Jim Berry clutches try PM'ing 2rismo, Leewah or Paul/Stacey (two.06l).