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Now that I finally have five seconds to think (damn Uni and work :() its time to get this sorted. So, to summarise, I should have the following done:

  • Jim Berry Stage 1 (already balanced).
  • Standard flywheel: machined and balanced.
  • Balance clutch and flywheel together
  • Replace rear main seal
  • Replace gearbox input seal (yogi000: is this the same as the "rear gearbox seal"?)
  • Change throwout bearing (is this aka. the thrust bearing, or different?).
  • Change spigot bearing.
  • New fluid.

Anything I have missed?

Cheers,

Lucien.

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Guest DIRTgarage
You're done!

Now hurry up and off to WSID with you!

Adrian

Jim Berry clutches are the SHIZNIT!!!! took one down the quarter with me 9 times on drag day under 10.9 secs....1.51 60' times and not the slightest hint of unwanted slippage!!

You're done!

Now hurry up and off to WSID with you!

Adrian

I'm having enough trouble keeping the car on the road let alone the track (or exhibit my horrendous driving skills) :P

Can anyone confirm that the 'rear gearbox seal' is the 'gearbox input seal', and that the throwout bearing = the thrust bearing? On another point, how does the spigot bearing differ from the thrust/throwout (or am I just confused and they are all the same thing)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

I'm having enough trouble keeping the car on the road let alone the track (or exhibit my horrendous driving skills) :)

Can anyone confirm that the 'rear gearbox seal' is the 'gearbox input seal', and that the throwout bearing = the thrust bearing?  On another point, how does the spigot bearing differ from the thrust/throwout (or am I just confused and they are all the same thing)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Rear box seal is just that ( rear or output shaft seal ) . Front box seal is input/main shaft seal.

Thrust = throwout bearing .

Spiggot bush ( bush in the skylines , bearing in some cars ) , is the one that the main box shaft fits in and its located in the crankshaft .

If i was to replace a clutch i would replace the thrust bearing always , spiggot bearing always , spiggot bush depending on wear but would replace on an old car ( they are very cheap ) .

I hope that helps

Im the same as you Lucien nothing ever ends up a small job. You end up doing 100 other jobs 'while you can' Its satisfying but at teh same time ends up being alot more work/money! I also need a new clutch if i want to be able to launch any higher than 3500 RPM with 4wd traction! I was plannign to get the ORC 700ps rated twin plate. As for 1700 delivered to my door its not bad. Hoping to install myself one day...

Rear box seal is just that ( rear or output shaft seal )  . Front box seal is input/main shaft seal.

Thrust = throwout bearing .

Spiggot bush ( bush in the skylines , bearing in some cars ) , is the one that the main box shaft fits in and its located in the crankshaft .

If i was to replace a clutch i would replace the thrust bearing always , spiggot bearing always , spiggot bush depending on wear but would replace on an old car ( they are very cheap ) .

I hope that helps

Very helpful :P

Just one further question: you say replace the spiggot bearing and spiggot bush. I assume, given you said its a bush in some cars and a bearing in the other, you don't mean that there is both in the Skyline box?

Lucien.

Very helpful :D 

Just one further question:  you say replace the spiggot bearing and spiggot bush.  I assume, given you said its a bush in some cars and a bearing in the other, you don't mean that there is both in the Skyline box?

Lucien.

Correct , skylines have a bush and if the car is fairly new and the bush looks o.k. i dont bother changing (I just replaced the clutch in my car and didn't change the bush ) . Cars that have a spiggot bearing , i always change ( the bearing can get dry , noisy and seize ).

So, just to finalise this list for the viewers at home :P

  • Jim Berry Stage 1 (already balanced).
  • Standard flywheel: machined and balanced.
  • Balance clutch and flywheel together.
  • Replace rear main seal (comes with Jim's clutch).
  • Check gearbox input seal and replace if necessary.
  • Change throwout (aka. thrust) bearing.
  • Check spiggot bush and replace if necessary.
  • New fluid.

So all up what will that cost?? Maybe i'll get one of those instead of the ORC. It'll surely be cheaper...

The "Stage 1" from Jim is (IIRC) about $695 + GST on exchange. Fitting is probably about $300. Then you have your parts costs (seals, bushes, oil, etc).

A few corrections on my previous list. Jim provides a front seal (not rear). And he is not a big believer in balancing the flywheel: he said just to get it machined.

Lucien.

Wee. Clutch is finally out and on its way to Jim. Turns out there was still quite a bit of meat left on the clutch, but according to Nath @ Grey Imports the flywheel was covered in blue spots indicating the pressure plate has died. Noice.

Thanks everyone for your input :P

Just a question about the stock GTR flywheel:

What are the tolerances for machining one? I've got my clutch apart right now and the flywheel is a little banged up so I've got to figure out if it can be safely be machined and still be effective in the car or if I've got to get a new one, which means more downtime.

Oh how I wish to have the resources you guys have as opposed to Canada where we've only had Skylines for a year now and still don't have many shops that know their way around an RB.

Nice, let us know what you think when you get it installed :D

Clutch is in. Haven't had a chance to give the car a good thrash as its got 4 week old petrol in it, so I'm trying to stay well off boost ATM.

Keep in mind I haven't driven the car for nearly 6 weeks: I've been driving a turbo diesel landrover instead (very similar driving experience... not).

Initial impressions are... oh, fcuk, I stalled :O The clutch take up is much lower in the pedal travel, but that's probably more to do with the previous clutch being cactus. The clutch pedal feel is very nice: I think its probably ever so slightly heavier, but there would be a pooftenth in it (and maybe a smidge of placebo). One thing that is noticeable, even at the low revs I've been keeping too, is that it grabs harder and holds on. Its still definately slip'able, which was a one of my requirements given I drive in Sydney traffic. Finally, the annoying squeaky problem I had is also gone, replaced with a nice clunk when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

Give me a week and a fresh batch of juice and I'll have more to say.

congrats lw!

mine is almost back in too! should have it back tomorrow or monday..however i got a exedy hd not jim berry clutch, which i am a bit sad about but if the exedy is sh!t the next one will be a JB clutch...

lw:

i didnt think there was such a thing as old petrol? or have i been living under a rock??

im just curious as my car will have 5 week old petrol when i pick it up, and i need to know if i should be laying off the throttle till i get a fresh tank??

i mean, i would have thought it would take more than 4 weeks for the petrol to get from the refinery to the petrol station?

i didnt think there was such a thing as old petrol? or have i been living under a rock??

im just curious as my car will have 5 week old petrol when i pick it up, and i need to know if i should be laying off the throttle till i get a fresh tank??

Premium 98 RON fuels use aromatics to increase their octane count. Eventually the aromatics loose their effectiveness, hence my comment :).

ok crap better stop thrashing it then..! :)

I snuck some octane booster in to be absolutely sure it would be OK. But its a two edged sword: octane boosters tend to foul plugs and clog injectors. I'm sure it will be fine... given my luck I don't take chances :)

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