Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now that I finally have five seconds to think (damn Uni and work :() its time to get this sorted. So, to summarise, I should have the following done:

  • Jim Berry Stage 1 (already balanced).
  • Standard flywheel: machined and balanced.
  • Balance clutch and flywheel together
  • Replace rear main seal
  • Replace gearbox input seal (yogi000: is this the same as the "rear gearbox seal"?)
  • Change throwout bearing (is this aka. the thrust bearing, or different?).
  • Change spigot bearing.
  • New fluid.

Anything I have missed?

Cheers,

Lucien.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest DIRTgarage
You're done!

Now hurry up and off to WSID with you!

Adrian

Jim Berry clutches are the SHIZNIT!!!! took one down the quarter with me 9 times on drag day under 10.9 secs....1.51 60' times and not the slightest hint of unwanted slippage!!

You're done!

Now hurry up and off to WSID with you!

Adrian

I'm having enough trouble keeping the car on the road let alone the track (or exhibit my horrendous driving skills) :P

Can anyone confirm that the 'rear gearbox seal' is the 'gearbox input seal', and that the throwout bearing = the thrust bearing? On another point, how does the spigot bearing differ from the thrust/throwout (or am I just confused and they are all the same thing)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

I'm having enough trouble keeping the car on the road let alone the track (or exhibit my horrendous driving skills) :)

Can anyone confirm that the 'rear gearbox seal' is the 'gearbox input seal', and that the throwout bearing = the thrust bearing?  On another point, how does the spigot bearing differ from the thrust/throwout (or am I just confused and they are all the same thing)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Rear box seal is just that ( rear or output shaft seal ) . Front box seal is input/main shaft seal.

Thrust = throwout bearing .

Spiggot bush ( bush in the skylines , bearing in some cars ) , is the one that the main box shaft fits in and its located in the crankshaft .

If i was to replace a clutch i would replace the thrust bearing always , spiggot bearing always , spiggot bush depending on wear but would replace on an old car ( they are very cheap ) .

I hope that helps

Im the same as you Lucien nothing ever ends up a small job. You end up doing 100 other jobs 'while you can' Its satisfying but at teh same time ends up being alot more work/money! I also need a new clutch if i want to be able to launch any higher than 3500 RPM with 4wd traction! I was plannign to get the ORC 700ps rated twin plate. As for 1700 delivered to my door its not bad. Hoping to install myself one day...

Rear box seal is just that ( rear or output shaft seal )  . Front box seal is input/main shaft seal.

Thrust = throwout bearing .

Spiggot bush ( bush in the skylines , bearing in some cars ) , is the one that the main box shaft fits in and its located in the crankshaft .

If i was to replace a clutch i would replace the thrust bearing always , spiggot bearing always , spiggot bush depending on wear but would replace on an old car ( they are very cheap ) .

I hope that helps

Very helpful :P

Just one further question: you say replace the spiggot bearing and spiggot bush. I assume, given you said its a bush in some cars and a bearing in the other, you don't mean that there is both in the Skyline box?

Lucien.

Very helpful :D 

Just one further question:  you say replace the spiggot bearing and spiggot bush.  I assume, given you said its a bush in some cars and a bearing in the other, you don't mean that there is both in the Skyline box?

Lucien.

Correct , skylines have a bush and if the car is fairly new and the bush looks o.k. i dont bother changing (I just replaced the clutch in my car and didn't change the bush ) . Cars that have a spiggot bearing , i always change ( the bearing can get dry , noisy and seize ).

So, just to finalise this list for the viewers at home :P

  • Jim Berry Stage 1 (already balanced).
  • Standard flywheel: machined and balanced.
  • Balance clutch and flywheel together.
  • Replace rear main seal (comes with Jim's clutch).
  • Check gearbox input seal and replace if necessary.
  • Change throwout (aka. thrust) bearing.
  • Check spiggot bush and replace if necessary.
  • New fluid.

So all up what will that cost?? Maybe i'll get one of those instead of the ORC. It'll surely be cheaper...

The "Stage 1" from Jim is (IIRC) about $695 + GST on exchange. Fitting is probably about $300. Then you have your parts costs (seals, bushes, oil, etc).

A few corrections on my previous list. Jim provides a front seal (not rear). And he is not a big believer in balancing the flywheel: he said just to get it machined.

Lucien.

Wee. Clutch is finally out and on its way to Jim. Turns out there was still quite a bit of meat left on the clutch, but according to Nath @ Grey Imports the flywheel was covered in blue spots indicating the pressure plate has died. Noice.

Thanks everyone for your input :P

Just a question about the stock GTR flywheel:

What are the tolerances for machining one? I've got my clutch apart right now and the flywheel is a little banged up so I've got to figure out if it can be safely be machined and still be effective in the car or if I've got to get a new one, which means more downtime.

Oh how I wish to have the resources you guys have as opposed to Canada where we've only had Skylines for a year now and still don't have many shops that know their way around an RB.

Nice, let us know what you think when you get it installed :D

Clutch is in. Haven't had a chance to give the car a good thrash as its got 4 week old petrol in it, so I'm trying to stay well off boost ATM.

Keep in mind I haven't driven the car for nearly 6 weeks: I've been driving a turbo diesel landrover instead (very similar driving experience... not).

Initial impressions are... oh, fcuk, I stalled :O The clutch take up is much lower in the pedal travel, but that's probably more to do with the previous clutch being cactus. The clutch pedal feel is very nice: I think its probably ever so slightly heavier, but there would be a pooftenth in it (and maybe a smidge of placebo). One thing that is noticeable, even at the low revs I've been keeping too, is that it grabs harder and holds on. Its still definately slip'able, which was a one of my requirements given I drive in Sydney traffic. Finally, the annoying squeaky problem I had is also gone, replaced with a nice clunk when engaging/disengaging the clutch.

Give me a week and a fresh batch of juice and I'll have more to say.

congrats lw!

mine is almost back in too! should have it back tomorrow or monday..however i got a exedy hd not jim berry clutch, which i am a bit sad about but if the exedy is sh!t the next one will be a JB clutch...

lw:

i didnt think there was such a thing as old petrol? or have i been living under a rock??

im just curious as my car will have 5 week old petrol when i pick it up, and i need to know if i should be laying off the throttle till i get a fresh tank??

i mean, i would have thought it would take more than 4 weeks for the petrol to get from the refinery to the petrol station?

i didnt think there was such a thing as old petrol? or have i been living under a rock??

im just curious as my car will have 5 week old petrol when i pick it up, and i need to know if i should be laying off the throttle till i get a fresh tank??

Premium 98 RON fuels use aromatics to increase their octane count. Eventually the aromatics loose their effectiveness, hence my comment :).

ok crap better stop thrashing it then..! :)

I snuck some octane booster in to be absolutely sure it would be OK. But its a two edged sword: octane boosters tend to foul plugs and clog injectors. I'm sure it will be fine... given my luck I don't take chances :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...