Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think the only reason they would release a new model is becaause they are 100% sure that it improves on ALL aspects of the previous model.

It would make absolutely no sense for Nissan to release a car that doesn't sell because people already have better vehicles. Take a look at Mercedes or BMW, they all boast improved cars each time they do a launch.

The 34GTT is valued around the mid 20K to the high 40K mark *based on min and max figures* so shop around and you'll find something decent,

There would be more 34s if people started importing more of them... problem is that most dealers are under the impression that they are still "too expensive" for the stereotype customer.

I guess the times are changing and $30k is not much money these days.

Saying that, mine cost $28K and it was in absolutely fabulous condition.

nobody wants to spend $30k on a 2nd hand car anymore, thats the reason why they aren't popular.

I reckon it's because you can buy a very upgraded R32GTR for that much. Even standard'ish R33GTR's are not much more than a standard'ish R34GTT. That's the REAL problem.

:P cheers :P

nobody wants to spend $30k on a 2nd hand car anymore, thats the reason why they aren't popular.

you would be surprised at how many people spend 30k on used car

34`s will be more available this and next year as cars become 7 years old and bit higher k`s etc.

the only PRICE problem i`m having atm is the difference between auto and manual..my estimates are about 5-6k extra landed for the manual

i have this one coming in next month ,pipe ,alloys,sus ,60k manual.approx $33k complied by me..auto would be no more than 27k same car..higher k`s auto around 22-24k

looking forward to working with newer cars 98-2002 ..expect a lot less "issues" than the 32`s i have been working with

expect to see alot of 34`s over the next few years as 32 and 33 owners..MOVE ON... :P

post-7472-1123651473.jpg

well i know that lots of people *do* spend $30k+ on a 2nd hand car... but in general a lot of people seem to be going for the security of a brand new car (e.g. many of my friends have spent low $30k on brand new cars instead of an older car, as they don't care its not fast, just that its new and with a factory warranty)

its just that these days, new cars are selling more and more (last year was biggest ever new car sales), and the 2nd hand market is slower than it was.

R34 are a good deal for what you get, but high 20's is a different bracket. Don't forget most unsecured personal loans top out at $20k.. Anything more than that involves a car loan and the condition for most of these is that the car must be newer than 5 years old. I guess a GT-T qualifies for that.

15 year car vs one less than 5 years old, you'd definitely hope less issues :P

It has been said before but whilst it is cheaper to import the car yourself,I know that the idea of paying for a car which you cannot see and the actual importation process can be a turn off for many buyers.

Also, I think it'll take a car enthusiast or rather, a skyline enthusiast to fork out $30-$35k for a r34 (average price for one which has been landed/compiled and sold privately or through dealer). Most models ive seen on sale at this price are 98 and 99 and whilst they are still in great condition to us, the fact that it is fast approaching 6-7 years old may not be so appealing to an everyday buyer who wants a car to get from A -> B

Alot of the younger buyers wants a r34 but they simply cant have one because they cannot afford (buying/maintaining) the car

Ii think that the new p plater restrictions will also affect the number of r34's on the road

This leaves the more mature crowd where speed is not number 1 on their agenda.. As such, they usually turn to newer cars due to warranty and lower maintanence costs.

I dont think we've reached the stage where there are too many r34's in Australia yet. I can go through a week and see maybe just 1 or 2. Maybe in a few more years, we will see as many r34s as r33s thus causing the price to decrease even more.

R34 are a good deal for what you get, but high 20's is a different bracket. Don't forget most unsecured personal loans top out at $20k.. Anything more than that involves a car loan and the condition for most of these is that the car must be newer than 5 years old. I guess a GT-T qualifies for that.

15 year car vs one less than 5 years old, you'd definitely hope less issues ;)

Point 1: There are many banks that offer personal loans over $20K, you just need to have the right credentials and come across as someone who the bank can take a risk on. My 34 was purchased with a full personal loan, no security on the car. All that was required was proof of income. Sure it's like 1-2% more interest p.a. but if you read the terms and conditions between both personal and car loans - the benefits soon become very obvious.

Point 2: I can name at least half a dozen brand new cars that have been recalled over and over again!

Also, I think it'll take a car enthusiast or rather, a skyline enthusiast to fork out $30-$35k for a r34 (average price for one which has been landed/compiled and sold privately or through dealer).

Alot of the younger buyers wants a r34 but they simply cant have one because they cannot afford (buying/maintaining) the car.

Agreed Eric;! Most kids out there want the bling and the fast cars but when it comes down to handing over the plastic notes, they just can't! And you're right, maintenance and running costs soon start to add up very quickly! Saying that, even if you had the money, it all depends on what car you really want in the end.

Would you spend $1million on an Enzo? Even if you had the money?

does look like its changed a little satanic.. I remember back only about 2-3 years ago it was very hard to get a personal loan for higher amounts.. even *with* a $50k job and previous loan payback history. Many people I know were refused as they wanted to a buy a GTR and such.. and their only option was smaller finance companies with sometimes higher interest rates to counter the risk.

Now I look and most of the major banks have a more liberal policy and $30k is common.. so i take that back ;)

HSBC is where I got my personal loan from for the 34... they are one bank that are very very carefree with their loans. The bigger options there allowed you to borrow up to $70K through a personal loan.

Now I managed to get the full price of the car out of them with no loan payment history, no credit ratings with any other institutions for a period over 5 years, and I was 19! The only thing going for me was the job. Now tell me times have changed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...