Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all ive got a stock standard R33 nissan skyline series 2.I really want to do up my car but not crazy and I dont want to stuff my car up. I want some simple mods. Just a couple of questions.

I want a Exhaust,FMIC and BOV.

Can I add these items without the car running rich or the car ending up running like crap?? I know the car runs rich on the standard ecu.

Do I need to have a dyno tune if I add these items? I had a GFB hybrid BOV had to take it off cause the car kept stalling. Is there a BOV I can use so the car doesnt stall or idle funny. Ive heard people modding there cars and the car having probs I dont want this prob thats why im asking you guys as you know so much more than me.

If you guys have modding ideas tell me id love any imput.

the reason youre car was stalling was because you didnt plug the hose running back to your airbox, this means that instead of sucking through the typical opening in the airbox it bypasses the airflow meter by sucking through this hose, this means the ngine thinks it is getting less air than it really is, to solve that plug the hole. If you have and its still doing this, means your BOV is a POS and is leaking heaps of air.

If im leaving anything out guys lemme know.

Installing a front mount and exhaust wont change how your car runs at all..

hey all ive got a stock standard R33 nissan skyline series 2.I really want to do up my car but not crazy and I dont want to stuff my car up. I want some simple mods. Just a couple of questions.

I want a Exhaust,FMIC and BOV.

Can I add these items without the car running rich or  the car ending up running like crap?? I know the car runs rich on the standard ecu.

Do I need to have a dyno tune if I add these items? I had a GFB hybrid BOV had to take it off cause the car kept stalling. Is there a BOV I can use so the car doesnt stall or idle funny. Ive heard people modding there cars and the car having probs I dont want this prob thats why im asking you guys as you know so much more than me.

If you guys have modding ideas tell me id love any imput.

greetings, did you try a search? ours forums search has been fixed in the last few days so you should have found stacks of results. anyhow.

1) change exhaust is ok and gives good result. try and change dump and front pipe also. 3" split is perfect and highflow cat will give great increase and respsone. batmbl on the forums can sell u a split dump to suit stock turbo and cat

2) ugprade fmic is good for temperature drop. second hand gtr cooler should be fine, no need for a jap brand. hybrid or hybrid hackup brand should be fine also. the $1200 on a hks kit probably isnt justified. if you fit the cooler, do some other mods at the same time, that way you wont notice the extra "throttle lag" the bigger core will give you

3) stick with the stock bov its fine. if you want the noise fit a pod with a cold air intake. the stock bov is very loud in this case and theres no need nor benefit from an aftermarket bov

you can't tune the stock ecu other than put it on the dyno and change the timing like you would in a normal car. if your power sucks or the car is running crappy you should look at

1) ecu reset

2) check plugs (crappy running)

3) check 02 sensor (bad fuel economy)

on full throttle the car will run rich regardless, its designed to do so. you can however make it lean out on cruise and low throttle by making sure you have a good working oxygen sensor (o2 sensor). these die after 50,000 odd and are soely responsible for fuel economy. an apexi safc can lean out your car on full throttle to get some more power and save some fuel also. its a piggyback system. dont run more than 12psi on the stock turbo (or even 10psi) any more just adds more heat and will make it go bang.

that should be plenty of info to keep you busy for a while

3" exhaust & FMIC are valuable mods. if it was me i wouldnt worry about the BOV, the stock pulmb-back one works fine & doesnt attract unwanted attention. buy an apex power fc & get all your tuning sorted out, and you should have a very quick car.

Wow talk about a quick response. Someone I know told me to come to this website and ask he wasnt kidding when he said it was a good site. Ok so someone mentioned throttle lag when putting on a larger FMIC. What mods should I do to stop this? Does the power fc fix this because for the price $1200 is it even needed? Also the pod filter with cold air intake, ive heard installing a pod could cause the engine to suck in more hot air than cold. Im seriously going to do this cause i want the noise but any suggestions on the best cold air intake to get K&N,Blitz etc???Thanks for the advice so far its been great.

well paul pretty much put you in the right direction there...

i would also start with a full service before modding the car, especially if you have recently bought it

As for the induction side of things, i wouldn't worry about a pod filter. they just attract cops. there is plenty of evidence that putting a k&n panel filter into the stock airbox is just as free-flowing as a pod, and keeps the hot air of the engine bay out. i have this setup and i can hear heaps of sucking noise...

there's nothing you can really do to remove any throttle lag that you might get from a FMIC. that's just what happens. If you fit the 3" exhaust and FMIC you won't even notice the lag there will be just so much more power for you

once you have the exhaust and FMIC fitted, i would then get a bleed valve to up the boost to about 10-11psi. that should be safe with the FMIC and your setup. Take it to a dyno and pay for an hour's time (about 110). they can changethe boost for you, alter the timing, make sure the car is running fine and SAFE and you will walk away a very happy man

so, summing up i would go:

- full service: oil, plugs, trans, fuel filter (maybe $100)

- K&N panel air filter ($100)

- custom-made 3" exhaust turbo back ($1200)

- FMIC and piping ($600)

- bleed valve ($50)

- time on the dyno ($110)

total: just over $2k for a great increase of about 50kW or so...

happy moddding :unsure:

Warren.

Yeh i'll get a full service done before hand. Ive had the car for a year now, It was quick when I got it but i think ive gotten use to the power. Im still very happy with the way it is now but i like the look of the exhaust,FMIC and the turbo sound the engine makes when on boost. So a K&N panel filter are better than pods i read the exact same thing in hot4's. Gives out a sucking sound? Is it anyway close to the sound of a pod or blow off valve? I hate the loud psst sound but a nice subtle sound similar is what would be nice. Im not so sure about the bleed valve though and increasing boost because boost would already be increased by the exhaust anyways wouldn't it. Then I need to look at engine management like power fc and also a fuel cut defender. Gets too messy i want something simple. Yeh a dyno tune would be a must.

Ok so far on my shopping list is

- Turbo back exhaust

-FMIC (Im going to get a Hybrid R33 kit)

- K&N panel filter.

- 1 hour dyno tune

So from what I gathered this would give me the look and sound im after right?

Oh and quickly on a cold start is it normal for the car to begin revving at 1,000rpm for like a couple of seconds then rise quick to like 1,500 then after a good warm up returning to the normal idle range? Smoke comes out of the exhaust when warming up but is good once warm is this normal also.

Sorry for the tonnes of questions.

ahhh shit, what colour smoke is it?

That doesn't sound good at all. you might want to get a leakdown and compression test. (about $70)

But if you want a car that sounds awesome, and goes well.

Here's my setup.

FMIC

Power FC and full tune

Full Exhaust, split dump, high flow cat

Stainless Turbo to AFM duct

Boost at 12psi Via $30 bleed valve (fine for stock turbo, but not for standard ecu)

if you want awesome sound, and you want to hear the stock blowoff valve, do this -

pod%20bracket.jpg

Hey R33_Series2Lover,

As the guys have suggested free up your intake and zorst.

If you get a pod buy a sheild from Linton at garage debris (<--- do a search on this) and then pipe something from the front bar to the box so you get enough cold air into your motor (this is easy if you have hybrid style piping cause you wil have a hole to plumb the pipe through where the old intercooler piping was :P ).

That sorted buy the 3" split dump off Batmbl in the link above and if you can the new catco cat. (Later on invest in a cat back.)

If you can it is also a good idea to beef up your fuel and cooling systems i.e. intercooler, fuel pump and radiator etc (but not a nessesity if your only doing very mild modifications). This all adds to reliability.

The PFC will increase drivability and power provided its tuned properly (add $400~800 for this) but once you throw a PFC at a skyline it realy unleashes a monster. :(

New O2 sensor, vacuum lines, hoses, fan belts, oil catch cans, new plugs etc and a bit of time will ensure you reliability also.

A few words of advice however for when you begin to modify you ride!!!

1. Once you start you cant stop. It becomes so addictive you'll start having dreams about your next mod :unsure:

2. Shop around when buyin parts and do your research on the prduct before jumping into something.

Im realy starting to ramble on now arent i well better stop i spose neway good luck modifying your ride.

Cool yeh im going to research i did the mistake once of putting a BOV and the car stalled and I had all sorts of probs. Yeh and with the smoke its a Whitey/dark kind of smoke but only during warm ups. I called the mechanic now and said its probs condensation or just buring extra fuel when warming car up. He told me though if the smoke is blue then start looking for a new engine. never knew smoke could go blue. I had my cars ecu plugged into a console and car isnt running very rich so thats cool.

a boost increase in the order of 1-2psi will be noticable and you won't have to worry about fuel cut, ECU etc.

as for the smoke out the exhust, is it just condensation? that's normal. if its actually smoke then get it checked out by a mechanic...

my friend had a TX5turbo with a pod on it and he was shattered when the sucking sound still wasn't as loud as my K&N filter in the stock airbox. just make sure you take out the padding etc. that's in the airbox that is designed to dampen down the sound...

Warren.

now u got me all worried. I didnt even think about it because it was only during warm up after that its cool. I did tell the guy about the smoke and he said it was because my throttle positioning switch was tampered with. But when I warm up the car some smoke comes out not as much as before butnot to sure if it is infact condensation

lol at R33_Series2Lovers spam hehe

i got a bit worried about my car to blowing smoke turned out the it was just the hot air hitting the cold in the morning!!!

but better to get it checked out than not get it checked out

Yeh true. I did get it checked out plugged my engine to come kind of machine and said it was cause someone tampered with my throttle switch. But it still blows smoke when warming up then stops once car is warm and at idle. He told me car wasnt running rich so cant be that. Damn cars so complicated.

mate, don't stress too much

if its just condensation then this not actually smoke. stand behind the car. it it comes out and stays thick its smoke. if its comes out and blends in with the air quickly then its ust condensation. of course condensation goes away when the car warms up and is completely normal...

i really wouldn't worry about the 'smoke' unless the car is having problems

Warren

PS those links i put up, the intercooler and piping fron Just Jap is BLOODY CHEAP and they are a reputable company. i wouldn't give that a miss if i were you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...