Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Works Auto

What cant you take it ??

that a car 3-4 years older can smoke a car thats bigger in capacity ?? thats saying something huh ??

you think im talking shit..

come down to motorplex next week for a race .

I think you have your head up your ass.

Bit like most  of the r33 drivers. thats why i bought a r32 :lol: :) :)

Well done, you are my hero.

I sold my R32 because it was a slow piece of shit.

See, we're all entitled to opinions... :)

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Works Auto

What cant you take it ??

that a car 3-4 years older can smoke a car thats bigger in capacity ?? thats saying something huh ??

you think im talking shit..

come down to motorplex next week for a race .

I think you have your head up your ass.

Bit like most  of the r33 drivers. thats why i bought a r32 :lol: :) :)

No, its not saying anything really. The weight of the car and the power generated by the engine is what matters.

The RB20 can produce some good power, damn shame the gearbox they put with the R32 is easily broken. Makes you wish you owned a gtr.

I don't think anyone is saying that the RB20DET is bad, but to say silly comments about the RB25DET will not go down to well. Both engines have there good and bad point, so why not leave it at that, don't go digging any deeper.

See'ya:burnout:

The R32 GTST is at least the lightest of the bunch so it's not hard at all by comparison to get them going real quick.

Works Auto, good luck with giving the R33 boys hell next week. Nothing better than beating them at the plex for hanging the crap on you. Bring on the grudge match racing.

Originally posted by Works Auto

Yes a gtr would be nice. but not all of us can afford one.

Last night i ran 13.4 @ 105mph on stock turbo. It was a very hot night also.

The r33 i ran did 15.1. Makka did 13.3 in his r33 but he has hi flow turbo  and power fc.

There will now be a period of silence for the R33 owners....

Guest Works Auto

Im not giving there cars shit or the people shit. Its just the attitude of some r33 drivers.

They talk it up big time , then go down to the plex and run a 15 or high 14.

Then come back on here and brag some more about how powerful there cars are. Maybe they should learn to drive ??

Works Auto,

Well seeing as your turbo isn't factory then maybe you should set the facts straight. Macka has run a 12.9 in his shitty R33.

While I agree that many other car owners talk about quick time, I don't think it is related to specifically to R33's.

Your times are good, and many R33's run similar or better, but so what. Doesn't mean you need to act like a wanker cause others do.

And seeing as many R33 owners will be coming to your place of work then you might want to tone your attitude down.

See'ya :burnout:

Works Auto,

I thought last night you said you didn't know what the trubo was, but today you do?

Any R33's in particular on this forum saying they are quick when there not? Like HP most people want to say they have more, but in general everyone is pretty honest about the times they pull.

I'm sure your car can go faster, and good luck to you, but no need to group all R33 owners into the same category.

See'ya:burnout:

this topic was not about bad mouthing anybody or engines, its about performance, & learning from each others knowledge so lets talk about that & not whose right or wrong.

Theres are few r32s & r33 with t3/t4 & t04e turbos around doin good power, but are there any r32 or r33 owners out there with a new garrett series turbo, trust tdXX turbos or a hks unit.

I would imagine they would spool alot faster then a t04, & would give better mid range.

I would hate 2 have 240rwkw & turbo starts spooling around 4000rpm, even though the rb20det loves sitting around 4000-6000rpm mark

i would find that hard 2 drive & abit point less & dull

for a everyday fast car i think we should aim over mid range

Originally posted by Joe

this topic was not about bad mouthing anybody or engines, its about performance, & learning from each others knowledge so lets talk about that & not whose right or wrong.

Good call, leave the egos at the doorway and lets talk business :burnout:

Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

The cam gears increased the bottom end and the top end by about 10rwkw each but the middle of the power band is about the same.

I always thought Cam gears were design 2 move the power transfer around.

eg. move top end power to bottom end or mid range

Or even moving the mid range to give more power top end, tuning it how you want it always depended on the power curve.

i would imagine most people will take power from top end to increase more midrange as its more often used on the road.

Correct me if im wrong though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...