Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i lost my licence for 12 months

i got 12 months to do work to the car

i want to get around 350rwkw if thats possible

what mods will i need to do ? and in what order? anyone know

at the moment i have

r33 series 2 gts-t

front mount intercooler

airpod

hks bov

hks 3" exhaust

custom dump/screamer pipe

3" front pipe

cat has been 'damaged'

whats the next list of mods in what order? any help greatly apreciated

thanks

Anything is possible :), just depends on how deep your wallet is.

I can start you off with a pointers though, but it really depends on your budget. At 350rwkw you'd need to get the internals done as well, as thats really pushing the standard internals.

- Full ECU (powerfc?)

- Larger injectors (550cc might be ok, unsure)

- new AFM (Z32?)

- Larger fuel pump (bosch 044?)

- Larger turbo (GT30 or GT35?)

- Boost controller (any of those jap ones are good :)

- Larger cams (tomei poncams 256/264?)

That would probably get you in the right direction, but then you have your internals as well, like pistons, rods,abit of head work etc.

With that type of power you should also get a matching suspension (whiteline handling kit would do u wonders) and brake (brembo calipers with some dba slotted rotors?) setup to help you control your newly gained power.

You lost your license for 12 months and you want to increase the power of your car by 200kws ?

it shows loosing ure licence doesnt teach ppl a lesson

heh

yeah, but ill be keeping it to the track next time and to the drag strip ive learnt my lesson.

Anything is possible :), just depends on how deep your wallet is.

I can start you off with a pointers though, but it really depends on your budget. At 350rwkw you'd need to get the internals done as well, as thats really pushing the standard internals.

- Full ECU (powerfc?)

- Larger injectors (550cc might be ok, unsure)

- new AFM (Z32?)

- Larger fuel pump (bosch 044?)

- Larger turbo (GT30 or GT35?)

- Boost controller (any of those jap ones are good :)

- Larger cams (tomei poncams 256/264?)

Would he still need a Z32 AFM with a power FC?

Would he still need a Z32 AFM with a power FC?

shit yeah, youll max out the stock airflow meter at 250rwkw

unless you mean that by saying do you still need an airflow meter?

then if he got the d-jetro then you dont need an airflow meter but then the car is a bitch to tune and will run less superiror than the airflow meter setup

Q45 and a GT35R with a .82 turbine housing.

Set of cams.

Spend the rest of the money on a set of Toyo RA1's, RE55s - S for super soft compound. :D

Possibly even a better option again. Nitto drag spec.

What did you loose your license for?

12months, it must of been something drastic.

If it was for speeding or being stupid on the roads consider spending a little on a driving course so you can see how dangerous and uncontrolled a car can be.

when you've got cars pumping out 400-450rwkrw on pulp wuithout much effort at all...

350rwkw is hardly a need for race fuel

And you certainly dont need 2 GT30's to do it. Have you ever made 350rwkw?

And yes... my motor is for sale. Depending on what you want etc. Might save you a lot of time hassle and money

when you've got cars pumping out 400-450rwkrw on pulp wuithout much effort at all...

350rwkw is hardly a need for race fuel

And you certainly dont need 2 GT30's to do it. Have you ever made 350rwkw?

And yes... my motor is for sale. Depending on what you want etc. Might save you a lot of time hassle and money

hey on a totally offtopic and unrelated reply, the link in your sig to your for sale thread is b0rked R31Nismoid ^_^

when you've got cars pumping out 400-450rwkrw on pulp wuithout much effort at all...

350rwkw is hardly a need for race fuel

And you certainly dont need 2 GT30's to do it. Have you ever made 350rwkw?

And yes... my motor is for sale. Depending on what you want etc. Might save you a lot of time hassle and money

But someone had to use straight 104 octane to get that power reading!!! :lol:

To the guy that started this thread, if you already lost your license for 12 months, and now want 350rwkw, hopefully you have saved money for a head stone also????

But someone had to use straight 104 octane to get that power reading!!!  :lol:

To the guy that started this thread, if you already lost your license for 12 months, and now want 350rwkw, hopefully you have saved money for a head stone also????

leigh i say get as much power as u can all u need to remember is where and when u use it ive being in the same boat as leigh all i can say is f*** yea pump out the figures only young once!!!!!!!!

But someone had to use straight 104 octane to get that power reading!!!  :lol:

To the guy that started this thread, if you already lost your license for 12 months, and now want 350rwkw, hopefully you have saved money for a head stone also????

so?

simply replace with a GT35 and bobs ur uncle. they are the same dimensions so its direct swap.

Although 350rwkw and traction are two things that dont work together one little bit no matter what you do :O

Lets no get onto your car :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...