Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what about single turbo's?

i think i would prefer single turbo conversion now because its so much more simple.

im after a responsive single turbo.. after about 300rwkw +

thanks..

oh and where in brisbane sell single turbo conversion kits??

i would like to buy the kit pretty soon

With the single turbo kits there are a few options you have, but as far as response these turbo’s are a grey area for me.

1. Garrett GT35R with 0.82 housing is pretty good. It will get you to the 300 mark you are aiming for. There are a few members on this site going in that direction. Wouldn't hurt to read Shaun's post on his engine build up.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...1&st=&p=entry

Also you will have to source a manifold and gate.

2. HKS T04R. Do Luck is using it on their R34GTR. I will provide you with a quote from HPI magazine vol 40 GTR special #4.

"Rated to support over 600ps, these are very popular bolt on kits in Japan. They are generally considered to be the largest kit you should fit to an RB26 with a standard bottom end"

There are more turbo's on the market but I am unaware of any that is as responsive as these units. But having spoken to Sydneykid about this matter, he recommends the HKS 2530 units over single conversion. Personally, I agree with him!

i have got this quote for a twin setup

Low mount, twin turbo set up:

We are using Garret Australia sourced GT28RS's in place of the HKS

GT2530's.

List:

Two GT28RS turbos

Two stainless manifolds suit low mount

Two dump pipes

Shipping

Delivery time will be aprox 10 days

Total is $6750

maby a highmount will be cheaper?

however i will need custom intake, dump/front pipe.. unless there is some sort of kit?

$6750??

You can buy a pair of GT2560's or whatever those popular ones are at the moment for less than $3,000 for the pair. I think "RACESPEC" on these forums was selling them.

Then you can buy a pair of X-Force stainless dumps for around $600. Think you can get these from Unique Autosports?

Is there much point in getting the stainless manifolds? I'm sure you can get to 340rwkw without them.

So for around $3,600 you can buy similar bits to what you enquired about locally, and have them now.

Plenty of cheap singles under $2k

Once you add manifold, gate, lines/fittings, relocation of wires/hoses, heat shielding, fabrication of dump pipe, intake piping and any other bits and pieces it does get the cost up. Certainly not something I'd recommend doing if you're worried about the $.

To me a pair of GT2530s or similar on the standard manifolds makes the most sense.

yer i thought 6750 was a bit expensive :D

what decent single turbo could i get for under $2000

nah i was just saying that cuz JiMiH said $1800 for the turbo... i havent been able to find one that cheap.

i was planning to run stock injectors and ecu for a couple of months as the engine is being rebuilt now and i will just be driving it around softly on standard boost for a while...

but i plan to upgrade ecu and injectors...

also have bosch 044 pump ready to go in

You can buy a pair of GT2560's or whatever those popular ones are at the moment for less than $3,000 for the pair. I think "RACESPEC" on these forums was selling them.

GT2860 (707160-5). They can be had for about $2400 for the pair (see here).

Then you can buy a pair of X-Force stainless dumps for around $600. Think you can get these from Unique Autosports?

My 0.02c is that the X-force dumps are pretty expensive for what are just HKS copies, particularly if you want to change your front pipe too. Better off grabbing the Greddy Front Extension Pipes (~$1100).

Is there much point in getting the stainless manifolds? I'm sure you can get to 340rwkw without them.

Seemingly not. Have a search for the thread by John from UAS about his improved stock manifolds. Quite some discussion in there.

Lucien.

what about something like:

T70 (650hp)

- 0.70 A/R Compressor

- 0.84 A/R Turbine

from:

http://www.jrperformance.com.au/turbo&assessories.htm

I wouldn't be using a plain bearing turbo on a car that sees the circuit, OK on a drag car though.

:mellow: cheers :blink:

nah i was just saying that cuz JiMiH said $1800 for the turbo... i havent been able to find one that cheap.

Try Horsepowerinabox ... sometimes they have specials

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm

GT35 for around $2100

Shop around you'll find something for around 2k.

From my Experience so far Factory ECU does not like Turbo upgrades to much, Mine runs a pair of GT2560Rs, Trust Greddy Dumps and front pipe, 14psi and gets 315rwHP.

Runs extremely rich over 5000rpm, restricting power.

For me now to get 450rwHP (similar to your goal) I would require a PowerFC and some larger injectors (probably SARD 700cc) and some adjustable cam gears, add a more boost she'll hit 450 ;)

All up in parts alone you'd be looking at around $6500.

Try Horsepowerinabox ... sometimes they have specials

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm

GT35 for around $2100

Shop around you'll find something for around 2k.

thanks mate

that looks really good and will probably be the one i go for ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...